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DRAGRCR ONESEAT DEMON WHAT ARE THE ODDS?

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DRAGRCR

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Thread Starter #581
There are a lot of things that affect the 60 foot. For instance, when most of these cars get heat soaked, they don't take the throttle that well. They feel lethargic on the hit. Here is another one: One year at Legions a LOT of differentials broke. That is because the track manager was spraying the PJ1 straight up. Every year since we are back to normal with just a few breaking. So the cars can hook and I call that a soft hook. So, there is SOME slippage of the tire on the surface. Tire pressure can affect 60 foot some. Up to a point. Then you might spin. This is a big one, the PREP gets used up. Most tracks there are MANY passes before they will re spray the starting line, or groove. I suspect the groove is a soft hook. Nice shiny freshly sprayed track with no tire marks will be more likely to dead hook your car. And so on.............


So, first 4 passes at Irwindale on Thursday's Street Legal Drags. Not many cars running yet and the track looked excellent.

5:08 1.357 6.171 111.71 900 RPM LEFT LANE
5:19 1.352 6.165 112.09 1200 RPM LEFT LANE
5:29 1.346 6.164 111.65 1400 RPM LEFT LANE
5:37 1.350 6.153 111.99 1600 RPM LEFT LANE

So, you can see the 60 foot picked up with launch RPM and likely the tire pressure was increasing as well, until it dropped off for some reason. Was it heat soaked, was the track not holding up, was the tire pressure too much etc.

I also will tell you that I made 17 passes 2 days later on Saturday T&T. And I was on my LAST pass of the day trying to run the car out of fuel (get rid of the last of the Methanol) and I had spun a few times. But the best way to get the car to hook is from the lower 900 RPM. So, I was there and saying this is going to be my last pass. Fuck it. 900 RPM, stage real carefully, smash the throttle like it does not matter. TRY and spin Muther F*#ker. Almost tied the best 60 foot of the day which was launched at 1500 rpm. 1.345 VS 1.344. So how fast you open the throttle and with that I don't care confidence WILL make a difference. It's kind of like an all or nothing attitude.
 


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I've always heard these cars launch best just off idle. I believe (and can try to confirm via data log) that once you go up too far in RPM at launch timing gets pulled and takes too long to recover impacting the 60'.
 


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"So how fast you open the throttle and with that I don't care confidence WILL make a difference."

I'm pretty sure I've never left any other way with my stuff. ;)
 


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I dead hook every time
17 psi Mickey 18”
Dead idle
Half tank of fuel every pass
100 octane no mixing
Good burn out.

we get a prep before our class runs.
I usually line up towards the end of the field. 6734537F-C6E4-471B-A275-6ACD2281BB4E.png C4CE265E-5A06-4930-9CDB-39ECC5D2C3BF.png 98386F42-C1D1-49C5-A9F3-6B4D6CE9419F.png
hooks all the way down the track too.
 


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DRAGRCR

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Thread Starter #585
OK, so I just finished fixing the car. The Fuel check valves or foot valves in the fuel pumps were bad likely from running a Mix of MS109 and Methanol. My one friend has run Methanol several times with Sonoco GT 260 and had no issues so it might purely just be these 2 fuels mixed that did the pumps in. Just to be clear they still pumped plenty of fuel/pressure according to data logs. I bought a complete RedEye fuel pump setup from @16GoManGoHC2 . Then while I was waiting for the stuff to show up I went on Mopar TSP and researched the Demon/Redeye dual pump fuel system. As far as I can tell the two cars use all the same stuff (Part numbers) now. His stuff was slightly different in a couple areas but it seems to pump better. To be clear the Demon stuff supersedes to the current Redeye stuff.

OK shop manual says if rail pressure falls too fast after shutting off car: Replace fuel pump module, or replace leaking fuel injector. So, only 2 things it can be other than something obvious like a fuel line leak etc. When I would shut my car off the pressure would go to ZERO instantly.

I highly reccoment you get the lock ring tool. I bought this one from Amazon for $20. Use a breaker bar to turn the lock ring with this tool. It helps a lot if you put turning pressure with the breaker bar and then smack it straight downward with a rubber mallet a few times. Also you can use the tool with your hand to start the lock ring when reinstalling the pumps. Position everything just right and then push down and turn!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F9MJV4J?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

You also need a tool to remove the main fuel line. Line is exactly .500 in. But maybe not..............

The ONLY reason you would remove the main fuel line is if you have a bad level sensor on the right/Pass side of the car. There are NO fuel pumps on the Pass side. Pass side is only a suction stand pipe for the jet pump in the Fuel Pump module (it's on the drivers side) and possibly a relief valve for high pressure and the level unit/float. Pickup/Level unit PN 68412551AB as of now. Leave it alone!

Drivers side is the Pump Module. PN: 68445257AA as of now. It includes a level unit and 2 fuel pumps and a Jet Pump to scavenge the fuel trapped on the Pass side. When I pulled the car apart the Pass side was dry. Of course I will never do that again. So, 2 Pumps. One is a Primary and they other one is the #2, or B pump or secondary if you want to call it that. The Primary pump runs the Jet pump by taking some of it's output and discharging it through the pump/jet. When you go to idle the #2 pump shuts off. But the second that you touch the throttle to take off, the second pump starts and it runs at the SAME pulse width command as the primary. They are not staged or staggered. They run the same speed. If something goes wrong with the pump or wiring the bad pump will either default to 80% limp mode or shut off. The only difference is the Primary pump will keep running no matter what because it is needed to scavenge the Pass side of the tank.

The 2 pumps look identical. The second pump even has the output for the Jet pump but it is not used.

The 2 level units are interchangeable and they appear to snap in. But the Floats are NOT interchangable.

Changing the Pass side PU/Level unit is a bitch because you have to fish those intergal fuel lines over the hump and across the tank. So don't. One line is the suction line for the Jet Pump and the other line is the output from the Main Fuel pump Module crossing over to the Pass side and then out to the front of the car.

Changing the Drivers side main fuel pump module is not so bad. But I reccomend you get the tool if you have time and I reccomend you get a new O Ring. Mine seem to have swelled and were a little too big for my liking. So, hoping they seal properly over time..... 0222231612.jpg 0224231840.jpg 0223231333 (1).jpg
 


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DRAGRCR

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Thread Starter #586
Main/LEFT Fuel Pump Module/KIT..... 41D4ABB6-5343-4BA5-B7C0-ED7A91A575D3.jpeg
 


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DRAGRCR

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Thread Starter #587
RIGHT PU/Level unit. CC2AA2E8-9B6E-4FE8-9971-9B88DF1D81B3.jpeg PU LEVEL UNI.jpg
 


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jonx96

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I wish I could find a hellcat jet pump for cheap. Only way to go 3 pumps I guess. I don’t know the difference between the 2
 


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So what did I miss? Running methanol caused something to fail in the system?

In my Hellcat tune, "fault" causes the pump to run at 50% DC if memory serves. I think I logged that back when I was fooling with mine in the JMS.

Good to know additional FPCM just mirror what the primary does. That's exactly how my drop in system works.
 


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Thread Starter #590
So what did I miss? Running methanol caused something to fail in the system?
Yes, right after I started mixing M1 with MS109 I started experiencing long crank times. And it just got worse and worse. I have been limping the car along for the last few track visits by priming the system before starting by going KOEO for 5 seconds before starting the engine. So I bougt a fuel injection gauge/tester and connected it to the fuel rail and after I turn the car off the pressure would fall to zero immediately. Spec is no more than 10 PSI drop in 5 minutes when reading from an isolation valve forward (twoards the fuel injectors) or rearward (twoards the fuel pumps).

Maybe it was a coincedence but I think not. I will eventually find time to demo one of the pumps to get a look at the check valves. I have a friend that has a FP Module with a bad pump and I have a Module with good pumps but bad check valves. He is giving me his stuff so I am thinking MAYBE I can swap check valves and have one good module as a spare. But honestly I am thinking I would just buy a new Fuel Pump Module now that I know you only have to replace the one side and not the RIGHT side Level Unit/Pickup.
 


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Thread Starter #591
I did a whirlwind trip to Irwindale yesterday. Left at 8AM and got home at 3AM. I don't like driving at night but a big rain storm was chasing me......Super happy with the way the car is running and starting with the new fuel pumps. Also, got a screw in one of the taller Hoosiers so I switched to the shorter tires. Kind of interesing how the car ran. I was surprised. I will say the track was working great at the beginning. Straight Sonoco SS100 fuel it put up some really good MPH's. Surprisingly good......
5:12 pm 6.182 114.34 1.369
5:23 pm 6.162 114.51 1.354
5:35 pm 6.167 114.37 1.356
6:33 pm 6.168 114.56 1.354
6:54 pm 6.179 113.95 1.332 Grudge Race with Kelly and smacked that throttle good.
Last pass the track was not holding up, got slightly loose on the hit and shifted straight to third on the 1-2 upshift. That is why I got out early and made lots of runs.

Oh, and I have been told I am getting a #7 Last Call Car. Once that car comes in this little Demon will get some rest.........
 


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Ron what was the car weight? Those are some great runs.

How you gonna pay for #7? You can't be out selling your body again :ROFLMAO:
 


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Thread Starter #593
Ron what was the car weight? Those are some great runs.
I had nearly 1/2 tank on the first pass. At Houston, 3895 with just under 1/4 tank on the HRP scale. No Driver.
 


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I did a whirlwind trip to Irwindale yesterday. Left at 8AM and got home at 3AM. I don't like driving at night but a big rain storm was chasing me......Super happy with the way the car is running and starting with the new fuel pumps. Also, got a screw in one of the taller Hoosiers so I switched to the shorter tires. Kind of interesing how the car ran. I was surprised. I will say the track was working great at the beginning. Straight Sonoco SS100 fuel it put up some really good MPH's. Surprisingly good......
5:12 pm 6.182 114.34 1.369
5:23 pm 6.162 114.51 1.354
5:35 pm 6.167 114.37 1.356
6:33 pm 6.168 114.56 1.354
6:54 pm 6.179 113.95 1.332 Grudge Race with Kelly and smacked that throttle good.
Last pass the track was not holding up, got slightly loose on the hit and shifted straight to third on the 1-2 upshift. That is why I got out early and made lots of runs.

Oh, and I have been told I am getting a #7 Last Call Car. Once that car comes in this little Demon will get some rest.........
Great! You’ll be on the very short list of the ones who will put it on the track. We’ll actually get to find out what’s what. Congrats!!
 


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Thread Starter #595
I found out that I will not get any help in purchasing a SRT Demon 170. So, if anyone comes across any for sale at a reasonable price or knows of a lead it would be greatly appreciated. I called one Dealer this afternoon that sold their only one at MSRP to someone over the phone early this morning. So I guess going to the reveal was counter productive since I was traveling today and did not have any time to make calls....PM Please.....any info is much appreciated.
 


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I called my dealer
1 allocation
Not for sale
Going in a glass case for the showroom
 


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I found out that I will not get any help in purchasing a SRT Demon 170. So, if anyone comes across any for sale at a reasonable price or knows of a lead it would be greatly appreciated. I called one Dealer this afternoon that sold their only one at MSRP to someone over the phone early this morning. So I guess going to the reveal was counter productive since I was traveling today and did not have any time to make calls....PM Please.....any info is much appreciated.
Dodge treating their customers right.
 


Mike Jesse

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Inquired at the dealer I bought both of my SS's and the TRX at for the new Demon. Yes they have 2 allocations and will entertain putting my name on the order starting at $50K over.
I knew it was going to be a wasted call, but I had to try.
Guess I'll have to settle for 199 mile SS in the garage.
 


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Thread Starter #599
OK, here is where I am at:

I have made 180 documented calls and still nothing. Even some that seemed promising have NOW seen the money and raised their expectations to the STANDARD $100K over sticker. A full 95% of my calls result in a quote of that same $100K over MSRP, or "Market Price" or "we are waiting to see what the market is and we will call you back" etc.


I am offering $25K over MSRP.
I will go anywhere in the lower 48 US States to pick the car up.
I currently own a 2018 Demon and want to do a VIN, options and color Match.

Ronald Silva
(909)227-1999
srtdragrcr@gmail.com
Kingman AZ 86409.

Do you know someone? Do you want to see this car out there representing and see the Videos and the things I post on the car?
I am dissapointed my one deal that I trusted fell apart. I screwed up by not putting backup deals in place. But who knows maybe they would not be honored either. I am not rich and I do think a 25% tip would be appropriate.

Ron Silva.
 


BULL

Oh NO! Not that guy!
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At one point you got some emails back in the day...


Could it hurt to reach out to some of the people in those emails and ask for help and state your intentions with the vehicle?


You can't pretend that you're Demonology, but you did make a splash or two with the original.
 




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