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DRAGRCR ONESEAT DEMON WHAT ARE THE ODDS?

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Thread Starter #301
OK, so I went to Irwindale last weekend for the Match Race Madness Solid Gold race. They had a T&T Friday night. I was not planning on doing the T&T because it was $100 and I did not want to drop the coin. Already spending quite a bit on fuel etc. But then I realized I had the car set on kill still after coming back from Legions. Literally nothing was changed. AND, I knew the DA was coming in. Lower humidity and pressure building up some and with the Low humidity the Tempature was going to DROP after the sun went down. So, I went for it. My rival Walter had run Three 6.16's the night before. I ran into him on the way in and he challenged me to beat his time....... First pass with minimal (insufficient) warmup was a 6.18. I got this. I came right back around and now fully warmed up and a little heat soaked waiting, I ran a 6.14, DONE! Now I cooled the motor (Blower) down with fans and went back out there and the car chattered the tires all through 1rst gear with a minor 1-2 hiccup. Of course! I was pissed because I spent all that time getting the car ready and the DA was -125 Feet. But, I figured what the heck and went back to the lanes for another run. I ALSO noticed the Power Chiller was not working. The car is usually a little slower with a worse 60 right at that transition point of 55 Deg. Car fully warmed up and no power chiller and I had it shut off and had to move it up 3 times. I am in the bleach box and I pull up the race cooldown Page and the Intercooler loop is like 20 deg above the target temp. Oh well. NOW here is where that 1.32 60 foot comes in. The DA is good but the car is not optimized at all. But I was racing a Camaro and he was staging with one of those bump devices way up on the RPM and he bumped through the beams. I was way up on my converter too and I thought the starter would activate the tree. BUT NNOOOOoooooooo. He just let me sit there trashing my converter and trans. So I went to an idle and backed out. By that time that idiot was staging again............ I was pissed and took my time going in now that he was fully staged......

With the Demon you can stall it up and when it gets to about 1800 RPM the shear or charge or something like that changes inside the converter and the RPM will jump up higher. It always freaks me out and I have a tendency to back off the throttle because I think the car is going to push through the lights. If you think about it the RPM is jumping up because it is torquing less and that should not push you. And, I thought I tried this with my other car and it did not seem to help any. So, I was pissed and I went way up there on the RPM and left it. And that guy was already fully staged. So I was likely 2100-2200 RPM and I staged shallow as luck would have it. Those 2 added up to a 1.327 60 foot and a 6.10 in that good DA with a car that had no chiller and was a little heat soaked (considering the conditions, not like in the summer).

What is especially good is I confirmed this in +900 foot DA the next day. 1.330 sixty foot with a 6.17 at 111.67. So a slower ET and Speed because of the higher DA. But the 60 foot! I made 10 passes and had four 1.35's, Two 1.36's and Two 1.37's. But just those 2 were at that extra high RPM staging shallow as possible (difficult with the RPM that high). Not sure if I want to do that all the time or not. But in good DA and on a PB it sure seems to help as long as the track is on point. Irwindale is usually not, so I am a little perplexed on that point as well. Maybe the compound they are using and these Hoosier 28X10.5R17 DBR's were grooving........
 


Mike Jesse

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Ron, have you ever noticed the convertor flash RPM in your logs? If it's even possible.
I'm wondering if this car really needs another 400-600 flash RPM to bring out the best ET it's capable of.
You are probably right on the edge of blowing the tire off or not.
 


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OK, so I went to Irwindale last weekend for the Match Race Madness Solid Gold race. They had a T&T Friday night. I was not planning on doing the T&T because it was $100 and I did not want to drop the coin. Already spending quite a bit on fuel etc. But then I realized I had the car set on kill still after coming back from Legions. Literally nothing was changed. AND, I knew the DA was coming in. Lower humidity and pressure building up some and with the Low humidity the Tempature was going to DROP after the sun went down. So, I went for it. My rival Walter had run Three 6.16's the night before. I ran into him on the way in and he challenged me to beat his time....... First pass with minimal (insufficient) warmup was a 6.18. I got this. I came right back around and now fully warmed up and a little heat soaked waiting, I ran a 6.14, DONE! Now I cooled the motor (Blower) down with fans and went back out there and the car chattered the tires all through 1rst gear with a minor 1-2 hiccup. Of course! I was pissed because I spent all that time getting the car ready and the DA was -125 Feet. But, I figured what the heck and went back to the lanes for another run. I ALSO noticed the Power Chiller was not working. The car is usually a little slower with a worse 60 right at that transition point of 55 Deg. Car fully warmed up and no power chiller and I had it shut off and had to move it up 3 times. I am in the bleach box and I pull up the race cooldown Page and the Intercooler loop is like 20 deg above the target temp. Oh well. NOW here is where that 1.32 60 foot comes in. The DA is good but the car is not optimized at all. But I was racing a Camaro and he was staging with one of those bump devices way up on the RPM and he bumped through the beams. I was way up on my converter too and I thought the starter would activate the tree. BUT NNOOOOoooooooo. He just let me sit there trashing my converter and trans. So I went to an idle and backed out. By that time that idiot was staging again............ I was pissed and took my time going in now that he was fully staged......

With the Demon you can stall it up and when it gets to about 1800 RPM the shear or charge or something like that changes inside the converter and the RPM will jump up higher. It always freaks me out and I have a tendency to back off the throttle because I think the car is going to push through the lights. If you think about it the RPM is jumping up because it is torquing less and that should not push you. And, I thought I tried this with my other car and it did not seem to help any. So, I was pissed and I went way up there on the RPM and left it. And that guy was already fully staged. So I was likely 2100-2200 RPM and I staged shallow as luck would have it. Those 2 added up to a 1.327 60 foot and a 6.10 in that good DA with a car that had no chiller and was a little heat soaked (considering the conditions, not like in the summer).

What is especially good is I confirmed this in +900 foot DA the next day. 1.330 sixty foot with a 6.17 at 111.67. So a slower ET and Speed because of the higher DA. But the 60 foot! I made 10 passes and had four 1.35's, Two 1.36's and Two 1.37's. But just those 2 were at that extra high RPM staging shallow as possible (difficult with the RPM that high). Not sure if I want to do that all the time or not. But in good DA and on a PB it sure seems to help as long as the track is on point. Irwindale is usually not, so I am a little perplexed on that point as well. Maybe the compound they are using and these Hoosier 28X10.5R17 DBR's were grooving........
I know you have tried a lot different ways to get the most out of it. If you launched at 2200rpm what would be different then if you set that rpm on the launch control or higher? These cars are like a video game trying to unlock the secrets to run the fastest times
 


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Thread Starter #304
Ron, have you ever noticed the convertor flash RPM in your logs? If it's even possible.
I'm wondering if this car really needs another 400-600 flash RPM to bring out the best ET it's capable of.
You are probably right on the edge of blowing the tire off or not.
Believe it or not, I do not have one data log from a Demon. I have only messed with the Super Stock and the Redeye. The RPM does not jump up and stabilize or fall on the converter flash like an older car with a high stall converter. It just rises. Here is a Data Log from the Super Stock. The launch RPM is kind of high @1941. If you look back to the left you can clearly see what I talked about above. I had the RPM even higher at one point but I freaked out and dialed it back. You just have to go for it and keep it up there! I bet when I got that 1.32 with the Demon I was at 2200 and staged very shallow.

Untitled.png
 


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Thread Starter #305
I know you have tried a lot different ways to get the most out of it. If you launched at 2200rpm what would be different then if you set that rpm on the launch control or higher? These cars are like a video game trying to unlock the secrets to run the fastest times
We think alike. When you use Launch Control it is more challenging and likely to push. The reason is you have to floor the throttle real fast and the initial RPM overshoot and then dial back and sabilize to the set RPM. At 2200 I think it will push. If somehow the RPM could build slowly to the point I think you would be golden since LC uses Torque Reserve. But in that case I think you might spin VS hook leaving off the Foot brake. LC hits the tries real hard because the system is trying to CREATE wheel spin, and then manage from there a certain % of slip. I might try this if I am able. I just have to be at a T&T and remember to do it. Maybe give the starter a heads up!

Also, the best setting for LC so far has been a LOWER RPM setting and flashing the converter. I use 1100 RPM set point. But I really don't mess with it much. Mainly because of my Driving style I end up flaking every once in a while. I think it's because I guard or touch the gas pedal and the system needs to see the throttle at ZERO before execution.
 


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Thread Starter #306
After making that 6.10 pass at Irwindale I got all charged up and decided to take a little more weight out of the car. Got a solid 60 pounds out.

. BUMPER SUPPORT 2.jpg 0314221614_HDR.jpg
 


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Going to look strange going down the track with no nose on the car:unsure:
 


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Lol. Lots of stuff hiding behind there that can be removed. 😊 5C193C87-424A-432A-BC02-8070F4DA172D.jpeg
 


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I really like that Kirkey seat mount! What is that?
 


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Thread Starter #310
I really like that Kirkey seat mount! What is that?
That setup ready to bolt in including the seat belt buckle and seat belt guide is a total of 21.8 pounds. The base and side brackets are made by Planted. But that stuff is HEAVY. If you think about it the 68 HEMI Darts only had simple side brackets made out of thin aluminum that boilted directly to the floor. This setup is WAY stronger (and heavier).

Steel base and aluminum side brackets.
. 51e5ToVU0pL._AC_SX425_.jpg sb095.1pa-3.jpg

. After my work.......

. 0311221602.jpg

Also I used all TI bolts and I drilled the 1/2-20 Seat Belt Buckle bolt (could not fint a TI one cheap enough).
 


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I thought that looked like the planted base. The side brackets are bitchin! Yea that’s heavy. I had a set of custom brackets made by Carlin Fabrication there in SoCal (they did the cage and suspension) and the whole seat with cover and bracket combination is only 23 lbs all together. Thanks.
 


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Went to MATS last weekend. Had a nice drive out and ALMOST did not make it................. Getting off the exit, right at the race track this happened.

 


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Went to MATS last weekend. Had a nice drive out and ALMOST did not make it................. Getting off the exit, right at the race track this happened.

Wow Wtf was that guy thinking...That was as close as you can get..damn
 


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Went to MATS last weekend. Had a nice drive out and ALMOST did not make it................. Getting off the exit, right at the race track this happened.



Good job saving your day!!!


This is why I run a dash cam as well!
 


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Holy shit, WOW!!! Glad you were able to brake in time!
 


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FFS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 


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Thread Starter #317
Wow Wtf was that guy thinking...That was as close as you can get..damn
It was a Lady. I saw her eyes once she committed to go for it, she was looking at me and I think she knew she was going to possibly get T-boned. If you look carefully, you can see she steered right and hit the gas. It's hard to tell in the video, but I on the other hand was committed to a full on smash the brake pedal hard as I can anti-lock stop. The truck and trailer with the Demon in it did great. Also note I opened up the trailer and the Demon had not moved 1 inch, and nothing else was out of place. So, you need a good, strong ball mount and need to tie that car down tight and secure.
 


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Thread Starter #318
I won the Deja Vu II Hellcat Challenge. I only entered the one class and I made 20X my entry fee. Not bad. Only had to go 4 rounds because a couple of Competitors broke in the final rounds.
 


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Makes me think of those drilled out hex head tie down bolts.
But with your diff brace installed those should no longer be there.
 


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Thread Starter #320
Makes me think of those drilled out hex head tie down bolts.
But with your diff brace installed those should no longer be there.
Correct. I have been using many methods over the years. I have settled on a tie down with a snap hook where it attatches to the floor and a Double wire hook facing up where it attaches to the car. It does an excellent job of cross tying. I attach to the K Member in front just outside the rear corner of the rear splash pan. In back I go into the hole on the bottom of the LCA near the inner bushing. That wraps slightly around the exhaust pipe. It also crosses real well. I get everything good and tight. I used to baby those straps but now I tighten the crap out of them.

0428211026.jpg 0428211027.jpg


On the front I got rid of the snap hook and forged mini-J hook and now use a much simpler double wire hook working end facing up.

0428211037.jpg 0428211038.jpg
 


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