Tire rotating on wheel

[motorhead]

1. Lose the conjecture - it's embarrassing the amount of conjecture or anecdotal information taken as fact in this community;
2. Check your pride and wallet at the door - racing is expensive, deal with it;
3. Beads may fix some issues, in some applications but not all - however beads may be a cost effective solution;
4. Out of round - no tire is perfectly concentric regardless if it has 17 or 90 psi in it and when the tire is most likely prone to cupping it is at LOW speeds, at a certain point (higher speeds when the weight of the beads is overcome by inertia) the beads will distribute themselves in accordance with science and the mechanical limitations of your setup.

 

[Mean Cat]

Yes I saw that. If I listened to everybody I wouldn't be driving a HC. Never mind on drag radials to the track.
I guess they have to cover themselves to a certain point.
I know a few run the beads at my track. Even if it doesn't balance perfectly with the beads. Mine are only balanced until the first launch on a freshly mounted pair of drag radials. Then it's vibration until that works it's way up to a shake.
Like @Marc W stated what have I got to loose. I spent 5 trips to the tire shop 1/2hr from my place and $60 a visit to rebalance. The damn beads might only cost $60 to get.
If i can save 4hrs driving plus re and re wheels on the car. Not to mention the $240 saved in balancing. In my case I will give it a shot. In my case since sanding the inside of the wheel they don't even move nearly as bad as they used to. Mostly the left one.

I agree with all you said , & good luck , I will see how yours does & if good , then when I need rear tires I'll do it. How many oz.'s per tire (rears) are you going to use ?

 

[hell on wheels]

Ron has in the past chased the balance by relocating the weights on the wheel as it turns inside the tire to keep up with it. I think he was taping the weights on which allowed him to simply move them to corresponding marks on the tire. He’s a hard worker. 😂

Actually I think he maybe balancing the wheels alone.

As long as his tires are within a (2 oz. Margin)

He just let's them spin on the wheel.

 

[DRAGRCR]

Balance the wheel by it's self with TPMS or Valve stem. Use black stick on weights if possible. Those weights never get stripped from now on so remind your tire guys not to touch them.
Now mount tire using regular mounting soap/lube. You want the tire to move a little as it is normal. Also it can help the tire center it's self if it seated off center. I have had tires run rough until after the first time I raced on them. Then they were smooth.
Spin balance with the machine set up for a simple or bubble balance. That way it does not correct for wobble and should be asking for ONE piece of weight. Also adjusting for wobble takes MORE weight and will slow you down. I always strip weights and wash my wheels before taking them in and set my wheel up with a small piece of masking tape stuck lightly on the back of one spoke near the hub. NOW, the Tech should stick the piece of tape right where he would normally be placing the weight and write the required weight figure on it. 1.75 OZ or whatever. Then he gives the ASSY to you without adding any weights and hands you some SILVER stick on weight. You go home and clean the tire in alingnment with the tape on BOTH inside and outside. I put a Blue paint mark on the tire in the 2 places. The mark on the inside is redundant in case you wipe the outside one off when cleaning, dressing the tire etc. Now you have the LIGHTEST part of the TIRE marked.

If < 3 OZ is called for I do not add weight. I race the car and evaluate. Weight is most likely not needed. In fact if it is calling for < 2 OZ I don't even bother with blue marks etc. I have had sets where I don't have to bother with either tire.

I always underbalance because as the tire wears out it requires LESS weight to balance it, AND, you only need to get it to be < 3 OZ imbalance.
So, if it is asking for 6 OZ I usually will put 4 OZ etc.

I put a strip of 2" masking on the wheel just behind the spokes and I LEAD the blue marks according to rotation by about 4". This will give you 16 RUNS if the tire slips 1/2" each run. I stick the weight on top of this masking tape and then cover it with more tape that is 3" but you can use whatever MASKING tape you have. Masking tape is good enough and you will be pulling it off at the race track with the wheels mounted on the car.

I mark the tire aligned with the Valve Stem just to get an idea of the tire slip and how often I have to check them. But obviously if it is shaking I need to check. I have forgot and then had to do it quickly during eliminations. So I ususlly check before those times.

When the weight lags the blue mark by about 4" I pay attention to how the car is driving at top end and if it is shaking I then reach in and clean my new spot and then carefully pull up the weight and move it. It is RARE to need to re do the masking tape that the weight is stuck on. It still sticks good enough. I carry extra in case I need to start from scratch. Then I cover it with new tape and carry on.

The best thing is I can do this myself at the track. Traveling all over I have no idea where a good tire shop is and I rarely have time to leave the track and go searching etc.

@Mean Cat

 

[hell on wheels]