Sign Up! To view all forums and unlock additional cool features
Welcome to the #1 Dodge, Jeep and RAM Forum dedicated to FCA owners and enthusiasts. Register for an account, it's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the SRT Forum today!
Please video lol, it would not come out. Maybe I had to dip it below the crank pulley, pull it forward a little so that the crank pulley is in the pan, push it back up flush, then slide forward. But as I recall, back was still hitting the crossmember, wrestled with it for a bit. I got it back in in under an hour
Y’all are wild today. Asked installer to ask builder for a full refund. Was fun while it lasted. Going to be putting the old motor back in myself possibly. Not thrilled about having the old motor in but it is what it is.
Y’all are wild today. Asked installer to ask builder for a full refund. Was fun while it lasted. Going to be putting the old motor back in myself possibly. Not thrilled about having the old motor in but it is what it is.
Please video lol, it would not come out. Maybe I had to dip it below the crank pulley, pull it forward a little so that the crank pulley is in the pan, push it back up flush, then slide forward. But as I recall, back was still hitting the crossmember, wrestled with it for a bit. I got it back in in under an hour
Ahhhh, yes, I remember the picture, this may be even the second time I’m asking lol. Sorry about that if that’s the case. Just making sure you used a break in oil not a full synthetic oil.
if you have glazed the cylinders due to improper break in the only way to break through that stuff is to run a ball hone in it and hone it off which means you would have to drop the Pistons out. I have seen an old trick of using a powdered cleanser work to remove such glaze but not in a car with a supercharger. If it was a final last ditch effort for an engine that was destined to come out Anyways, I would be tempted to give that a try but damn that’s extreme. Total Seal makes s product called Quick Seat that is a super fine abrasive used for first start break in but it needs to be applied by hand to the cylinder walls before putting the pistons in, but it’s a similar concept to using a cleanser in a running engine. I wish there was something we could do to help you out of this pickle. Tough to watch a fellow hellcat brother in pain and feel helpless to help.
I’d be interested to see what the builder has to say about that valve. Even if you are able to get the rings to seat, that valve looked trashed and needs lapped
I’d be interested to see what the builder has to say about that valve. Even if you are able to get the rings to seat, that valve looked trashed and needs lapped
I agree with the valve.
Some thing has to be up rings installed the right way?
I have idled engines for ever getting coolant to burp and I have beat the shit out of them. Never had a ring problem
I agree with the valve.
Some thing has to be up rings installed the right way?
I have idled engines for ever getting coolant to burp and I have beat the shit out of them. Never had a ring problem
Well unfortunately Im in between rock and meat-grinder. I can’t take the motor out myself. Cant afford to pay installer again so he’s eating it. Engine builder won’t cover shop time. This is just an all around shit situation and that’s why I want out. If Thursday doesn’t produce results. Its gonna be a long time till it gets resolved as installer can only work on it it spare time. He leaves for vacation on Saturday so the only one getting bent over by this is me. Get bent over by my ex-friend (yes friendship is now gone) who is the installer and now the builder as Im sure they'll do everything to blame me. I just want out of the car. Right now 40k takes the chassis and old motor and Ill pay for transport. I have a clean title.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.