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For reference and reference only. The original outermost shims must remain the outermost shims. To get close to the .004 backlash I went with one medium shim and two thin shim on the passenger side. One medium shim and four thin shims on the drivers side. Be generous with the rtv. Tighten a little and let sit for an hour. Come back and final torque. Small bolts 40ft/lbs, big bolts 90ft/lbs. Let cure for 24 hours.
Final backlash reading, couldn’t be fuckall bothered to try and get .004.
If you would also like a wavetrac, I am fully confident in building these. Thank you to @Hatermkr and @hellno for the guidance. To start the process a core must be provided, the ring and pinion will be inspected and if passes, the build will begin. Customer pays labor and shipping (crate will be built. Boxes… yeah 😂)
It is not in the car. The rtv is curing. I also don’t know when it will go in. I don’t have a lift and installing on my back on the concrete floor is not happening.
right now when i spin by hand it feels tight but keep in mind no fluid and lubrication cycles yet.
I use my harbor freight $100 little transmission scissors jack to change out diffs on the floor, it’s not too bad with one of those.
Tight, tight evenly everywhere or tight spots? Evenly everywhere probably ok. Did you check back lash in more than one place? Like 4 places at 90 degree increments?
I use my harbor freight $100 little transmission scissors jack to change out diffs on the floor, it’s not too bad with one of those.
Tight, tight evenly everywhere or tight spots? Evenly everywhere probably ok. Did you check back lash in more than one place? Like 4 places at 90 degree increments?
Been there and done that with the HF trans jack, yeah never again 😂.
Tight evenly everywhere, not worried it feels like a normal diff.
Back lash in one spot, it is a circle, if the backlash is out in another location, whats the recourse? Add/remove shims and throw the original reading out of whack? Considering you have to do the caps every time, it gets annoying after try three.
I used my harbor freight hydraulic cart for the diff, made it pretty easy. Then again I have stock axles so comes out easy. I want that little red transmission jsck, would have give me more room I think
Been there and done that with the HF trans jack, yeah never again 😂.
Tight evenly everywhere, not worried it feels like a normal diff.
Back lash in one spot, it is a circle, if the backlash is out in another location, whats the recourse? Add/remove shims and throw the original reading out of whack? Considering you have to do the caps every time, it gets annoying after try three.
Checking it every 90 degrees would be to just check the gears mounted runout on the new carrier. If perfect would not change, if out well depending on how much, .001 ok, 2 ehhh, 3 I’d have to fix it. It’s probably perfect, it’s just me, and he’s my “gots ta know” ways that would have made me check for run out.
Smooth controlled burn outs with both wheels spinning is the key.
Those clutches burn up real quick when only one wheel spins and you don’t realize it.
One way you can tell you’re only spinning one wheel is your speedometer will be reading much lower, like half or less than expected for the rpm and gear that you’re in
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