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DRAGRCR SRT SUPER STOCK

Mike Jesse

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Ron, what do you think of the new radial slick?
 


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Thread Starter #462
Ron, what do you think of the new radial slick?
I like the Hoosier Drag Bracket Radial a lot. I had them on my Demon and now this car. Both had the 28X10.5R17. That is the size I use when I go to private rentals etc. where I know the prep will be on point.

Tim had them on his Demon last Saturday in the 29.5X11.5R18 and I bet he could hook without a burnout. I have that size in my closet ready to be mounted and I will be using those locally as my drive back and forth to the track tires. In fact Tim drove 65 miles each way on them. For me, I am 15 miles from the track. They are NOT dot legal.

They hook and they seem to soften the blow in situations where the car might hop.

The only thing I do not like is I am having trouble loading the car with this set. The ones on the Demon did not do this. But they keep spinning on the ramp even after I raced on them. So I am going to have to buy the grip tape that @Hunter suggested. I was even having a little trouble on the upper part of the ramp that has lines in it.

1126201501a_HDR.jpg
 


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DRAGRCR

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Thread Starter #463
Congrats Ron @DRAGRCR on your 9 second passes !!
Your SS is putting in the work, it was good seeing you again & talking to you.
It was a great day at HRP, lots of good ET's for everyone.
The new color looks awesome.
Enjoyed it.
Yes Robert it was good to see all you guys again. The weather was amazing. I blew it and I did not get to take advantage of the best part of the DA. But I did learn some things and I do love to learn. In fact my PB was at the end when the DA was only -547 Feet and the car was fully warmed up with no cooldown etc. It was especially nice to see prominent Tuners/Racers there at this intimate event Zdung and Alex. So cool. And to see all the guys setting Personal Bests was also very rewarding. I am so glad I am on the list for this small gathering of friends and I will most likely come every year if I can.
 


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I like the Hoosier Drag Bracket Radial a lot. I had them on my Demon and now this car. Both had the 28X10.5R17. That is the size I use when I go to private rentals etc. where I know the prep will be on point.

Tim had them on his Demon last Saturday in the 29.5X11.5R18 and I bet he could hook without a burnout. I have that size in my closet ready to be mounted and I will be using those locally as my drive back and forth to the track tires. In fact Tim drove 65 miles each way on them. For me, I am 15 miles from the track. They are NOT dot legal.

They hook and they seem to soften the blow in situations where the car might hop.

The only thing I do not like is I am having trouble loading the car with this set. The ones on the Demon did not do this. But they keep spinning on the ramp even after I raced on them. So I am going to have to buy the grip tape that @Hunter suggested. I was even having a little trouble on the upper part of the ramp that has lines in it.

View attachment 35444
Can’t even lie that is a nice trailer.
 


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Yes Robert it was good to see all you guys again. The weather was amazing. I blew it and I did not get to take advantage of the best part of the DA. But I did learn some things and I do love to learn. In fact my PB was at the end when the DA was only -525 Feet and the car was fully warmed up with no cooldown etc. It was especially nice to see prominent Tuners/Racers there at this intimate event Zdung and Alex. So cool. And to see all the guys setting Personal Bests was also very rewarding. I am so glad I am on the list for this small gathering of friends and I will most likely come every year if I can.
Yeah, it is a nice gathering of people & cars, with roughly a 20 car limit makes it easy to do what you want. With Z & Alex there, 2 of the best Tuners in the country makes it nice too. Alex tuned my car & it is point on.
Your SS is running awesome & your 60' is sick & it will get faster, amazing !
 


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Nice runs Ron. 10.0 consistently is doing it, not to mention in the 9s in a pretty much stock car. Good stuff.

I've got a 2019 RE tune and the 2020 you sent me from your old car. Comparing them the only difference I see is in Aggression 0 shift patterns. I'm not sure what mode that is (maybe sport or track?) but the 2019 has a higher 1-2 shift than 2020 but just a few RPM but only certain instances.

2019 1-2 = 6270 rpm commanded

2020 1-2 = 6320 commanded, so a 50 rpm difference but only in a couple of scenarios. Others are closer. They've remapped what some of the tables do in 2020 and without driving a car around and seeing what table it picks for different drive modes I'm having to guess at which one's which.

Both 2019 and 2020 have a 6700 rpm hard rpm limit and 6500 rpm soft limit in autostick. In "drive" it's 6350. @DRAGRCR did you try running in autostick as that gives about 150 more RPM?

I'm going to try to get a Super Stock tune so I can see what's different about it vs these two RE tunes.
 


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Mike Jesse

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Ron, you should consider adding a winch to your trailer for loading/unloading the car.
Throw the hook onto your tiedown location and walk it up and into the trailer.
I had this in my trailer when I was racing all the time years ago. With the wireless remote key fob it's real easy.
If the car is ever hurt and undriveable it sure makes loading much easier. Not a lot of money to get set up either.
 


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Thread Starter #468
Nice runs Ron. 10.0 consistently is doing it, not to mention in the 9s in a pretty much stock car. Good stuff.

I've got a 2019 RE tune and the 2020 you sent me from your old car. Comparing them the only difference I see is in Aggression 0 shift patterns. I'm not sure what mode that is (maybe sport or track?) but the 2019 has a higher 1-2 shift than 2020 but just a few RPM but only certain instances.

2019 1-2 = 6270 rpm commanded

2020 1-2 = 6320 commanded, so a 50 rpm difference but only in a couple of scenarios. Others are closer. They've remapped what some of the tables do in 2020 and without driving a car around and seeing what table it picks for different drive modes I'm having to guess at which one's which.

Both 2019 and 2020 have a 6700 rpm hard rpm limit and 6500 rpm soft limit in autostick. In "drive" it's 6350. @DRAGRCR did you try running in autostick as that gives about 150 more RPM?

I'm going to try to get a Super Stock tune so I can see what's different about it vs these two RE tunes.
I never try autostick because I did not know the rev limit would be higher. I have always run all my cars in Drive/Auto.

Refresh my memory.....Is that in Drive but pull a downshift paddle just before launching and then let it force shifts at redline? I assumed it would shift higher as well (along with the higher rev limit and still hiccup).

This will only be an issue at lower DA and if the car picks up HP from breaking in more and eventually I will try some different fuels / blending etc.

I am working with Curt to lower the shift points, but I am not going to unlock the PCM.

Tune sent.
 


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Thread Starter #469
Ron, you should consider adding a winch to your trailer for loading/unloading the car.
Throw the hook onto your tiedown location and walk it up and into the trailer.
I had this in my trailer when I was racing all the time years ago. With the wireless remote key fob it's real easy.
If the car is ever hurt and undriveable it sure makes loading much easier. Not a lot of money to get set up either.
I did not have them install a winch box when we built the trailer. Adding it now might be problematic for various reasons. I do have a Cum-A-Long for those times when she won't move on her own.
 


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.....Is that in Drive but pull a downshift paddle just before launching and then let it force shifts at redline? I assumed it would shift higher as well (along with the higher rev limit and still hiccup).
This is how I race my car, I've raced all my modern Mopars this way and to me it's the fastest and most consistently fast. My 06 300 SRT8 really liked it and so did my Scat Pack, this redeye is the first to hiccup in this scenario - still makes good passes though overall. It's actually been over a year since I've been able to go to the track, and I was looking to make some passes in good 'ol D (full track mode of course) and see how it shifts, and if it's better.
 


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Ron, you're probably having a hard time getting the car in because the shiny part of that ramp unfolds and touches the ground :ROFLMAO::p
The grip tape will help. Weird you're struggling so much to get it up when it's dry. Was it dewy when you were trying it? Regardless, it isn't something you want to mess with, you know that.
 


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Grip tape, much like the kind one puts on steps, is perfect for loading. I've loaded Modifieds during a surprise rainstorm (and snow once), and without the grip tape there is just no way to make it up the ramp. I bought a roll from Grainger and it lasted quite a long time. Two or three strips in the tire track area on each side gets it done. Once it wears out or frays on the edges it's easy to peel off and add a new strip.

https://www.grainger.com/product/3M-Solid-Black-Anti-Slip-Tape-6BV27
 


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Thread Starter #473
Ron, you're probably having a hard time getting the car in because the shiny part of that ramp unfolds and touches the ground :ROFLMAO::p
The grip tape will help. Weird you're struggling so much to get it up when it's dry. Was it dewy when you were trying it? Regardless, it isn't something you want to mess with, you know that.
Here at HRP it was a nice day with sun and not too much humidity. I loaded an hour before sunset. So, no dew to speak of. I was shocked when it spun after racing on them though.......Like I said the first set on the Demon never did this. Even when they were new with the tits on them. So weird.
 


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Grip tape, much like the kind one puts on steps, is perfect for loading. I've loaded Modifieds during a surprise rainstorm (and snow once), and without the grip tape there is just no way to make it up the ramp. I bought a roll from Grainger and it lasted quite a long time. Two or three strips in the tire track area on each side gets it done. Once it wears out or frays on the edges it's easy to peel off and add a new strip.

https://www.grainger.com/product/3M-Solid-Black-Anti-Slip-Tape-6BV27
I am going to use what Bull suggested. It is used on skate boards and has decent reviews and is more budget friendly for now. You reminded me that if it starts raining I usually will try and get the car in the trailer right away so it would be best to have it on there.

I did not say but I did scratch the car loading it at home. Not getting a run up the ramp. But after all that messing around I was too far to the right and I should have re positioned before going in. The Right Front Wide Body Fender Flare needs repainted. Minor damage on the splitter that I will live with. Now I know why this color looks all weird all the time. My Paint Guy was freaking out with the mix. He said there are 4 different pearls in it and they are unusual and it takes a special other component to mix. Good thing he said he has it all, because ONE pint from the paint supply store is $300. Gosh.......
 


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I never try autostick because I did not know the rev limit would be higher. I have always run all my cars in Drive/Auto.

Refresh my memory.....Is that in Drive but pull a downshift paddle just before launching and then let it force shifts at redline? I assumed it would shift higher as well (along with the higher rev limit and still hiccup).

This will only be an issue at lower DA and if the car picks up HP from breaking in more and eventually I will try some different fuels / blending etc.

I am working with Curt to lower the shift points, but I am not going to unlock the PCM.

Tune sent.
Yes, car in D (drive) and click paddle down as you roll to the beams. I always race my car like this and mine is in autostick as I use it for my burnout as well to click through 1,2.3 and roll out. So I just leave it, roll to the beam and launch. Car will auto up shift at the designated shift point for autostick. I think you'll find better times using it but test and let us know.

Got the SS tune and will look through it to see what all's different.
 


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I am going to use what Bull suggested. It is used on skate boards and has decent reviews and is more budget friendly for now. You reminded me that if it starts raining I usually will try and get the car in the trailer right away so it would be best to have it on there.

I did not say but I did scratch the car loading it at home. Not getting a run up the ramp. But after all that messing around I was too far to the right and I should have re positioned before going in. The Right Front Wide Body Fender Flare needs repainted. Minor damage on the splitter that I will live with. Now I know why this color looks all weird all the time. My Paint Guy was freaking out with the mix. He said there are 4 different pearls in it and they are unusual and it takes a special other component to mix. Good thing he said he has it all, because ONE pint from the paint supply store is $300. Gosh.......
Oh man! Well you made it yours and it is a race car. Unless the panel is dented/bent, I would just leave the scratch. The odds of it being paint-matched enough to not notice it has been repainted is small IMO. Paint work now is a chemistry experiment moment in time, each batch is a little different and so are application conditions...I dunno. Good luck either way. Your girl is a fighter, she's gonna get a few nicks. Killer runs and times BTW, I knew you could go 9.9 on the stock tune!
 


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Thread Starter #477
Oh man! Well you made it yours and it is a race car. Unless the panel is dented/bent, I would just leave the scratch. The odds of it being paint-matched enough to not notice it has been repainted is small IMO. Paint work now is a chemistry experiment moment in time, each batch is a little different and so are application conditions...I dunno. Good luck either way. Your girl is a fighter, she's gonna get a few nicks. Killer runs and times BTW, I knew you could go 9.9 on the stock tune!
It's in the actual flare right on the flat edge. But it did not break the flare thank goodness.

Right now it is too obvious. The paint transfer is silver. He is going to blend in a small area and then re clear the whole flare. Even if it is a 90% match it will be better than anything I can do to it. Mainly because one little spot gouged the paint.

I may go over it with a black felt pen for this weekend just to tone it down a bit.

He said 2 days and a max of $275. And I watched video on how to remove it. Just grab it and pull like you don't care.
 


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It's in the actual flare right on the flat edge. But it did not break the flare thank goodness.

Right now it is too obvious. The paint transfer is silver. He is going to blend in a small area and then re clear the whole flare. Even if it is a 90% match it will be better than anything I can do to it. Mainly because one little spot gouged the paint.

I may go over it with a black felt pen for this weekend just to tone it down a bit.

He said 2 days and a max of $275. And I watched video on how to remove it. Just grab it and pull like you don't care.
Well that's not a bad price! Going to be nerve-racking pulling that flare off!!!
 


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Well that's not a bad price! Going to be nerve-racking pulling that flare off!!!
Here you go..........
0112211304.jpg
 


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Thread Starter #480
Video of the 9.956 run @Classic Lover

 


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