When to know to get out? I.e. sell.

[Speedy!]

Short version - I believe the 60' is the bottom line. Get a 1.48 or better and you'll be easy 9s. The MPH is there, anything over about 136 - 137 has enough power for a 9 second pass. MPH over that is gravy.

Long version:

I love digging in to this kinda stuff, so forgive my enthusiasm LOL. My opinion is the issue is your 60'. You can add power and the MPH will go up, but your ET doesn't change much until the 60' comes down. If you could get a 1.48 60' you'd have easy 9s and everything below 1.48 is more gravy. I had the same trouble with mine a while back and started focusing on the 60' for this season and it made a BIG difference. In my situation, I had to pull power at the launch to get the 60' dialed in. Mike knows how to do this so ask him about it. Over last winter I added the AAD drag pack suspension and custom alignment and that has seemed like a game changer for me. I had low 1.4x 60' back in the spring, but we'll see how it does in warmer weather at ChallengerFest.

The STKR is odd. If you took timing out and it went away, then it is likely real knock and the kind of stair step appearance in the log would also indicate it is real. I think the reason it's so much is due to a multiplier table that's used at higher RPM. Can you have someone watch you make a pass at the track and focus on your exhaust? Real knock will present as little puffs of smoke from the exhaust.

What's the actual mix if your fuel, what brand is being used, etc? My theory is that with the IAT the fuel is giving up at it's current octane level and a little knock starts to occur and then the high rpm multiplier kicks on and the party's over.

I have been running Renegade brand RM109 unleaded race fuel for many years. Here are the specs to compare to yours. I run it full tilt without any 93 in the tank or at least as empty as I can get it (like barely making it to the track parking lot before it dies from no fuel LOL )

https://renegaderacefuel.com/produc...9-high-density-blend-blue-renegade-race-fuel/

• Octane – R+M/2 107
• Motor Octane 100
• Research Octane 114
• Specific Gravity 0.723
• RVP 6.7
• Oxygenated 9.6%
• Unleaded Yes
• Stoich Ratio 13.57:1
• Color Blue

 

[fumanchu182]

Short version - I believe the 60' is the bottom line. Get a 1.48 or better and you'll be easy 9s. The MPH is there, anything over about 136 - 137 has enough power for a 9 second pass. MPH over that is gravy.

Long version:

I love digging in to this kinda stuff, so forgive my enthusiasm LOL. My opinion is the issue is your 60'. You can add power and the MPH will go up, but your ET doesn't change much until the 60' comes down. If you could get a 1.48 60' you'd have easy 9s and everything below 1.48 is more gravy. I had the same trouble with mine a while back and started focusing on the 60' for this season and it made a BIG difference. In my situation, I had to pull power at the launch to get the 60' dialed in. Mike knows how to do this so ask him about it. Over last winter I added the AAD drag pack suspension and custom alignment and that has seemed like a game changer for me. I had low 1.4x 60' back in the spring, but we'll see how it does in warmer weather at ChallengerFest.

The STKR is odd. If you took timing out and it went away, then it is likely real knock and the kind of stair step appearance in the log would also indicate it is real. I think the reason it's so much is due to a multiplier table that's used at higher RPM. Can you have someone watch you make a pass at the track and focus on your exhaust? Real knock will present as little puffs of smoke from the exhaust.

What's the actual mix if your fuel, what brand is being used, etc? My theory is that with the IAT the fuel is giving up at it's current octane level and a little knock starts to occur and then the high rpm multiplier kicks on and the party's over.

I have been running Renegade brand RM109 unleaded race fuel for many years. Here are the specs to compare to yours. I run it full tilt without any 93 in the tank or at least as empty as I can get it (like barely making it to the track parking lot before it dies from no fuel LOL )

https://renegaderacefuel.com/produc...9-high-density-blend-blue-renegade-race-fuel/

• Octane – R+M/2 107
• Motor Octane 100
• Research Octane 114
• Specific Gravity 0.723
• RVP 6.7
• Oxygenated 9.6%
• Unleaded Yes
• Stoich Ratio 13.57:1
• Color Blue

Right now a lot of people say get the 3.09 gear gear, that alone according to a lot of feedback would put me in the 9s alone. If anyone happens to know the part number that would be correct for 2015+ it would be appreciated. That is something I can have done this week, a power chiller of sorts is a long term game. Before I arrive at the track I am running down to 1/4th tank of 93 and then blending in another 1/4th tank of Sunoco 260 GT plus (usually put 5 gallons in). Take the car for a figure 8 to mix and also clear out any 93 in the lines, then I head to the staging lanes.

 

[jonx96]

So on my normal tune at the track if I have a low 1.5 60ft at 137 or 138ish mph I am seeing 10.0 or a 10.1.
I am just on my phone right now and haven’t read through everything. But with your 60ft the times you are getting don’t surprise me.
the knock issue is weird. A shop down the road from my house is 150 bucks for an hour of dyno time. You may want to hop on there and see what all you have going on.
That’s a lot of knock but it sounds like you pulled timing and it went away? That’s odd. I’d do some street pulls with pulled timing and see what happens and slowly add a degree or two back in and see where it happens again.

 

[jonx96]

I will tell you last night at the same track I did 1.44 60ft at 2 months ago the best I could pull off was a 1.5. Prep wasn’t the greatest. I actually had wheel hop for the first time since the aad kit. @Phast Hemi told me to go up a pound and that seemed to help for the conditions given.

here is the time from a 2.85 pulley e85. I did have some stkr on this pass so I’m assuming that’s the issue for the et being only 9.90. But the 60ft was a 1.44

 

[jonx96]

For reference. DA was around 2000 I think. I may have heard 2200

 

[moparjim]

My $.02 .
Don't waste money on the 3.09 gears.
If you aren't getting decent 60' times now due to traction it will make it worse.
If you aren't getting good 60' times for other reasons then it may help a little. But you are using a band aid solution.
I know, I know everyone and their uncle will jump on me for this. I have yet to come across a situation where I was beat by a 3.09 geared car with similar power. 🤷
On stock powered and weight my car 60's anywhere from 1.50- 1.56 weather dependent. I had an Incognito on for a weekend and I did 1.49 a few times. I had other issues so the performance down track wasn't as hoped for.
Hell MarkP has done a 1.46 or 1.47 something in a stock RE.
If you listen to all the old info then get a 3.09 and leave at 1700 or whatever.
I would try leaving at around 1000 if you aren't already.
Another thing is if you are in a big line starting the car to move it up the IAT will be an issue. I usually am at the front of the line to keep hear out of the equation as much as possible.
Maybe try the stock air box again?
Hopefully you find something that works for you.
Btw the first time I met HPindy he had 3.09 gears. He was having all kinds of traction issues. I told him to back to 2.62. guess what the traction issues were less and the fast passes were faster than the time before.

 

[Speedy!]

Right now a lot of people say get the 3.09 gear gear, that alone according to a lot of feedback would put me in the 9s alone. If anyone happens to know the part number that would be correct for 2015+ it would be appreciated. That is something I can have done this week, a power chiller of sorts is a long term game. Before I arrive at the track I am running down to 1/4th tank of 93 and then blending in another 1/4th tank of Sunoco 260 GT plus (usually put 5 gallons in). Take the car for a figure 8 to mix and also clear out any 93 in the lines, then I head to the staging lanes.

I personally wouldn't do 3.09 gear. I don't think it's what you need.

My first suggestion is to up the octane. Run the car down to almost empty and put in some really good fuel, perhaps even a leaded race fuel just as a test and run the same tune you have.

Cool the car down.

Work on the 60'.

Welcome to the 9s.

 

[fumanchu182]

My $.02 .
Don't waste money on the 3.09 gears.
If you aren't getting decent 60' times now due to traction it will make it worse.
If you aren't getting good 60' times for other reasons then it may help a little. But you are using a band aid solution.
I know, I know everyone and their uncle will jump on me for this. I have yet to come across a situation where I was beat by a 3.09 geared car with similar power. 🤷
On stock powered and weight my car 60's anywhere from 1.50- 1.56 weather dependent. I had an Incognito on for a weekend and I did 1.49 a few times. I had other issues so the performance down track wasn't as hoped for.
Hell MarkP has done a 1.46 or 1.47 something in a stock RE.
If you listen to all the old info then get a 3.09 and leave at 1700 or whatever.
I would try leaving at around 1000 if you aren't already.
Another thing is if you are in a big line starting the car to move it up the IAT will be an issue. I usually am at the front of the line to keep hear out of the equation as much as possible.
Maybe try the stock air box again?
Hopefully you find something that works for you.
Btw the first time I met HPindy he had 3.09 gears. He was having all kinds of traction issues. I told him to back to 2.62. guess what the traction issues were less and the fast passes were faster than the time before.

I personally wouldn't do 3.09 gear. I don't think it's what you need.

My first suggestion is to up the octane. Run the car down to almost empty and put in some really good fuel, perhaps even a leaded race fuel just as a test and run the same tune you have.

Cool the car down.

Work on the 60'.

Welcome to the 9s.

Well i effed up, took advantage of the hhp deal and got a 3.09, should i cancel the order? I dont think ill be able to do anything with the IATs this season, for those passes last night i was 1st for three of the runs. I have fans but if the car is hot cause they stalled us in the staging lanes nothing I can do other than tazer cool down last minute.

 

[Hickster]

Sounds like people and weather is against ya. Drop back and punt.

 

[moparjim]

Well i effed up, took advantage of the hhp deal and got a 3.09, should i cancel the order? I dont think ill be able to do anything with the IATs this season, for those passes last night i was 1st for three of the runs. I have fans but if the car is hot cause they stalled us in the staging lanes nothing I can do other than tazer cool down last minute.

Cancelling the order would be what I would do. But that is me. Your choice. I would hate for you to have to go to a bigger tire to calm down the gear or worse start in 2nd.
I am not necessarily saying they are bad, just not what the hype I read about. This is of course from my experience and not gospel.

I prefered to try and learn what the car likes.
I have tried everything from leaving at idle to as high as I can. Low tire pressure to high tire pressure. Shifting manually to pulling the wheel shifter back and then letting it shift itself.
What works for me at my track is leave at 1000-1200 (I go by feel not tack) to load the suspension.
I try to have some heat in the car but not run much before the pass to help with IAT's.
Our track runs the test and tune guys between race rounds. So by being in the front parked during the racing I get the temps where I want, and the prep of the track is still good. They prep again before the next race or qualifications. So I always get a good track.
I also stage as shallow as possible to get a run at the lights. This helps the 60'.
My tire pressure is usually around 22-23psi before the burnout.
This and the staging is probably a big part of why my mph is always questioned by the "experts" when I post good times.😂
Not all this may work for you as you have more power than I do.

Keep at it, and change one small thing at a time so you know what ends up working for you. You will get there. The mph says so.
The reason for the IAT being so high.🤷
Like I said maybe try the stock air box to compare. I know my car did not like the aftermarket intake I tried. IAT's where higher even after wrapping with insulating material.

 

[fumanchu182]

Cancelling the order would be what I would do. But that is me. Your choice. I would hate for you to have to go to a bigger tire to calm down the gear or worse start in 2nd.
I am not necessarily saying they are bad, just not what the hype I read about. This is of course from my experience and not gospel.

I prefered to try and learn what the car likes.
I have tried everything from leaving at idle to as high as I can. Low tire pressure to high tire pressure. Shifting manually to pulling the wheel shifter back and then letting it shift itself.
What works for me at my track is leave at 1000-1200 (I go by feel not tack) to load the suspension.
I try to have some heat in the car but not run much before the pass to help with IAT's.
Our track runs the test and tune guys between race rounds. So by being in the front parked during the racing I get the temps where I want, and the prep of the track is still good. They prep again before the next race or qualifications. So I always get a good track.
I also stage as shallow as possible to get a run at the lights. This helps the 60'.
My tire pressure is usually around 22-23psi before the burnout.
This and the staging is probably a big part of why my mph is always questioned by the "experts" when I post good times.😂
Not all this may work for you as you have more power than I do.

Keep at it, and change one small thing at a time so you know what ends up working for you. You will get there. The mph says so.
The reason for the IAT being so high.🤷
Like I said maybe try the stock air box to compare. I know my car did not like the aftermarket intake I tried. IAT's where higher even after wrapping with insulating material.

Thank you for the information, yeah MIR is weird they don't let us go back to the staging lanes till they call us so there is a heat cycle before lining up. I'll have to remember to use the tazer cool down mode for a few minutes before hand. I am currently running a 315, should I go back to a 305? I'm kinda at my wits end with a lot of new information. Hehe, my brain might be burnt out!

 

[moparjim]

Ok so you are already running the 315 so effectively reducing the gear ratio a bit.
On a 3.09 geared car it would be roughly 3.02 if I remember correctly.
A 2.62 geared car is about 2.82 with a 3054517. Going by memory here so may be off a little.
Did you switch to that tire because of traction issues?
The big tire with the 2.62 will hurt the 60' do to the effective rear gear change by the taller tire. I have to go out but I will look at your slips again when I get back. The tire may explain some of what I thought off in the time slips.

 

[covidcommander]

Well, is there a 9 sec time slip? Hoping you got one and just didn't post it....

 

[fumanchu182]

Well, is there a 9 sec time slip? Hoping you got one and just didn't post it....

9.6. Shooting for lower 9’s this season.

 

[Hickster]

When your fee on say walks out on you on the show room floor. Time to go.

 

[covidcommander]

9.6. Shooting for lower 9’s this season.

My best was an 11.2 in a 2020 widebody hc stock.

Dam good 9.6 👏

 

[DavidKFla]

My best was an 11.2 in a 2020 widebody hc stock.

Dam good 9.6 👏

That was my best in the Charger when it was stock.

 

[Jack_Toepfer]

9.6. Shooting for lower 9’s this season.

What got you there?

I meant to ask, have you been icing the blower before runs? It’s the easiest way to fight the heat.

 

[DavidKFla]

What got you there?

I meant to ask, have you been icing the blower before runs? It’s the easiest way to fight the heat.

That's a quick way to blower failure. Different metals expand and contract differently.

 

[Jack_Toepfer]

That's a quick way to blower failure. Different metals expand and contract differently.

If ice on the lid has caused a single blower failure, I’d like to see it.