Trunk latch

[jonx96]

My trunk latch stopped working a few months ago. Everytime I wanted to open the trunk I have been crawling through the back seat. I bought a new latch and still no luck. Keyfob interior button or trunk button do not work. The trunk light is working and getting power. I am going to start tearing out the interior and follow the wire to see if I find it pinched or broke. Unless someone else has a better idea to try first.

 

[Paladin06]

My trunk latch stopped working a few months ago. Everytime I wanted to open the trunk I have been crawling through the back seat. I bought a new latch and still no luck. Keyfob interior button or trunk button do not work. The trunk light is working and getting power. I am going to start tearing out the interior and follow the wire to see if I find it pinched or broke. Unless someone else has a better idea to try first.

You had not mentioned it in awhile so I assumed you had fixed it. Hummm

 

[2fast4u]

I would check the actuating relay and make sure power is actually making it out when actuated before any wiring checks.

 

[Hatermkr]

I say trunk pins. Get rid of latch.

 

[jgilj]

I believe there was an issue in the wire harness to the release mechanism. I remember a post somewhere about this , I’ll see if I can find it. Good luck Jon and happy hunting!

 

[Linda's Hell Cat]

Jon, Is that Yellow pull tag thing where it should be and not in the way?


This is for a Challenger not a hellcat and if you can decipher the directions maybe it might work.


Just so folks know the "fix", I'll try to explain. It was the emergency release needing reset. Stand looking up at the trunk latch mechanism that is in the trunk lid. Take a screwdriver and find the opening at the "bottom" of that mechanism, and put the screwdriver through it. Grasp the emergency handle, so you are looking up at the mechanism, you have the screwdriver in your left hand and the blade is stuck way through that hole, then with your right hand you pull the emergency handle twice. that resets it back to the original setting. Lousy description, but if you are looking at it you should get it. Hope that helped. Too tired to edit it.

 

[jonx96]

Jon, Is that Yellow pull tag thing where it should be and not in the way?


This is for a Challenger not a hellcat and if you can decipher the directions maybe it might work.


Just so folks know the "fix", I'll try to explain. It was the emergency release needing reset. Stand looking up at the trunk latch mechanism that is in the trunk lid. Take a screwdriver and find the opening at the "bottom" of that mechanism, and put the screwdriver through it. Grasp the emergency handle, so you are looking up at the mechanism, you have the screwdriver in your left hand and the blade is stuck way through that hole, then with your right hand you pull the emergency handle twice. that resets it back to the original setting. Lousy description, but if you are looking at it you should get it. Hope that helped. Too tired to edit it.

I’ll have to look at that. I always that closing the trunk and then using the latch to open aligned it. Maybe that’s why I am having issue with the new

 

[vortecd]

I say trunk pins. Get rid of latch.

And light weight carbon fiber trunk

 

[45-70govt]

$5.00 at Home Depot and your all fixed. Easy peasy!

 

[Diboblo]

Known issue since Gen1 2005 era.

Trunk harness wires will break, inside the vinyl, from flexing at the trunk hinge.

Pull the trunk latch.

Figure out which color wires go to it.

Ohm between latch and the harness, near the hinge. You'll find it.

The signal is a hard 12 vdc, if you're checking voltage.

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[jonx96]

I’ve traced the wire to the bcm. Any known issue of the break. I have to move the car to my other bay to finish. But so far between the speaker in my he back seat to the latch it’s good

 

[Diboblo]

I’ve traced the wire to the bcm. Any known issue of the break. I have to move the car to my other bay to finish. But so far between the speaker in my he back seat to the latch it’s good

With a meter, or visually?

Mine tricked me.

Looked good, but the wire was broken, inside the vinyl. Took a meter and some patience, to find it.

You can also try applying 12v directly to the latch. If it throws, you have a wire issue.

I'm out of town and away from my computer, but when I get back, I'll look at my service manual.

If you have AlfaOBD, or allpar, you should be able to ping the trunk and open it, or at least, send the signal. That way, you can check for 12v, at the latch, or even the outside trunk button.

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[jonx96]

With a meter, or visually?

Mine tricked me.

Looked good, but the wire was broken, inside the vinyl. Took a meter and some patience, to find it.

You can also try applying 12v directly to the latch. If it throws, you have a wire issue.

I'm out of town and away from my computer, but when I get back, I'll look at my service manual.

If you have AlfaOBD, or allpar, you should be able to ping the trunk and open it, or at least, send the signal. That way, you can check for 12v, at the latch, or even the outside trunk button.

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I put the latch direct to the battery and it worked.
With a meter checking ohms and it sees continuity. The bay the car is in now I cant open the door enough. But I need the check the whole wire before I keep trying every 5 feet.

 

[Diboblo]

I put the latch direct to the battery and it worked.
With a meter checking ohms and it sees continuity. The bay the car is in now I cant open the door enough. But I need the check the whole wire before I keep trying every 5 feet.

I used a needle and an alligator clip and probed the wire, right around the hinge, where the wire harness exits the hinge and disappears into the car. It took a fair bit of work.

You can also probe between the trunk latch and the BCM. Put the meter on continuity, or diode check (so you get a beep) and move the trunk up and down (to flex the harness).

You will either immediately get continuity, and intermittent, with the trunk in motion... or it will be dead and completely open.

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[jonx96]

I used a needle and an alligator clip and probed the wire, right around the hinge, where the wire harness exits the hinge and disappears into the car. It took a fair bit of work.

You can also probe between the trunk latch and the BCM. Put the meter on continuity, or diode check (so you get a beep) and move the trunk up and down (to flex the harness).

You will either immediately get continuity, and intermittent, with the trunk in motion... or it will be dead and completely open.

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Continuity from the bcm to the latch. So I’m out of ideas

 

[catdad]

Continuity from the bcm to the latch. So I’m out of ideas

Try load testing the wire or power it from the bcm (pin removed or disconnected) and see if it opens.

 

[Diboblo]

Did you test the button, itself? It just passes 12vdc. Maybe the button is bad? Also, does the button on the trunk work?

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[Diboblo]

Bad ground?

Is the latch making good ground? IIRC, Challengers had an issue with water leaking, at the trunk. Possible corrosion, the latch bolts?

Maybe take a wire brush, to them and a little anti-sieze.

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[jonx96]

Did you test the button, itself? It just passes 12vdc. Maybe the button is bad? Also, does the button on the trunk work?

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Neither button or the key works.
ground seems to be shared with the trigger to turn the trunk light on and that works

 

[Diboblo]

I'm home,now. I'll crack open the service manual and have a look for any other possibilities.

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