Broken stud on header to CAT connection

[Alain]

As the title states boys. I snapped one of the studs while removing my exhaust to do a 3.90 diff swap on my M6 Challenger.

two questions.

1- does anyone know if those studs are pressed in or screwed in?

2- if pressed in, anyone have any pointers on how to press it out WITHOUT taking the header off the car?


I think they are screwed in because the end of the stud has what looks like and external torx end on it which I assume is there to aid in install and removal of the stud.

I appreciate any help you guys can give me.

 

[vortecd]

They are screwed in, I have had them out before. I would spray some kind of break away oil on them. You may also need to heat them up to get them out. I have been meaning to order a spare set. One of mine is a little messed up from the cat delete pipes I had on

 

[vortecd]

I don't know if I would even change the gears from a 3.70 to a 3.90. My auto went from a 2.62 to 3.09 so enough I felt it was worth while

 

[Alain]

They are screwed in, I have had them out before. I would spray some kind of break away oil on them. You may also need to heat them up to get them out. I have been meaning to order a spare set. One of mine is a little messed up from the cat delete pipes I had on

its GREAT news to hear they are screwed in !!!

I don’t think I have enough thread showing to use the double nut method to remove it. Any suggestions if that is the case?

I know I can drill it out and use a stainless steel bolt and nut to replace it if need be but I’d like to avoid drilling. I know those studs are hard as hell and will take forever to drill out.

 

[Alain]

I don't know if I would even change the gears from a 3.70 to a 3.90. My auto went from a 2.62 to 3.09 so enough I felt it was worth while

all of the input I’ve heard from guys who have gone to a 3.90 on their M6 has been positive.

im too far in to turn around now haha.

 

[vortecd]

Just what I said with break away and heat vise grips. I would not use stainless. I used it before and it was all I could do to loosen the nut back off. I would buy some factory ones

 

[vortecd]

all of the input I’ve heard from guys who have gone to a 3.90 on their M6 has been positive.

im too far in to turn around now haha.

On a stick may be different. I can't even tell I changed mine with an auto

 

[Alain]

Just what I said with break away and heat. I would not use stainless. I used it before and it was all I could do to loosen the nut back off. I would buy some factory ones

Sorry about that, I was so excited to hear they were screwed in that I over looked your suggestion to heat it up for removal.
where exactly should I apply the heat?

Heat the actual stud? On the top or on the bottom (threaded portion)

Or heat the actual flange ?

 

[vortecd]

Let it soak over night. If nothing then heat up the stud

 

[Alain]

Let it soak over night. If nothing then heat up the stud

Roger that !
thank you sir.
I’ll report back.

gotta stop by the dealership and get me 4 new ones And replace all of them.
im amazed none of the other three snapped as well. Those suckers were on there pretty good !!

 

[vortecd]

I would check to see if they will move first, no reason to break them also. A socket will fit on the end. Apply anti seize when putting it back together

 

[DemonSRT]

Sorry about that, I was so excited to hear they were screwed in that I over looked your suggestion to heat it up for removal.
where exactly should I apply the heat?

Heat the actual stud? On the top or on the bottom (threaded portion)

Or heat the actual flange ?

Put the heat to the flange not the stud. The idea is to expand the flange around the stud and then use a pair of vise gripes or a stud remover like in the picture. There are a few different types of stud removers available as well. If you use vise gripes, work the stud back and forth as it comes loose. Don't just reef it out as it could break.

 

[vortecd]

Put the heat to the flange not the stud. The idea is to expand the flange around the stud and then use a pair of vise gripes or a stud remover like in the picture. There are a few different types of stud removers available as well. If you use vise gripes, work the stud back and forth as it comes loose. Don't just reef it out as it could break.

View attachment 46571

I need one of those

 

[Alain]

Put the heat to the flange not the stud. The idea is to expand the flange around the stud and then use a pair of vise gripes or a stud remover like in the picture. There are a few different types of stud removers available as well. If you use vise gripes, work the stud back and forth as it comes loose. Don't just reef it out as it could break.

View attachment 46571

I'm gonna soak it tonight when I get home from work and let it sit until tomorrow. I"ll try it with vise grips first. If they don't work out i'll get me one of these stud removers you posted or one of these


https://www.amazon.com/ARES-70016-D...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

 

[DemonSRT]

I'm gonna soak it tonight when I get home from work and let it sit until tomorrow. I"ll try it with vise grips first. If they don't work out i'll get me one of these stud removers you posted or one of these


https://www.amazon.com/ARES-70016-D...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

That type of stud remover works also. I have used both of them with great success.

 

[Speedy!]

Yep, been there done that. Penetrating oil if that doesn't work heat the flange. Remember when you're trying to break the stud free you can turn it both directions. I bet it's gonna need some heat.

 

[moparjim]

@Alain when you heat the flange let it cool and heat it again. Do that 2 to 4 times and it will help with the death grip the flange and stud have together. I use this method mostly with rusted crap but if you broke a stud then it may help.

 

[Alain]

Yep, been there done that. Penetrating oil if that doesn't work heat the flange. Remember when you're trying to break the stud free you can turn it both directions. I bet it's gonna need some heat.

@Alain when you heat the flange let it cool and heat it again. Do that 2 to 4 times and it will help with the death grip the flange and stud have together. I use this method mostly with rusted crap but if you broke a stud then it may help.

Thank you fellers. I'm hoping to avoid having to use any sort of heat. If I need to use heat, one of these Benzomatic should work correct?

BERNZOMATIC Adjustable Hand Torch W/ Cylinder, Propane, Instant On/Off, 3,450°F Propane Temp. - 52RM88|KC3500 - Grainger

 

[Alain]

I can’t believe I never updated this thread !! I used heat on the flange like you guys suggested and a stud remover and it came out fairly easily.
want to update this in case someone is having the same issue and does a search.

thank you all for the help