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Bead lock wheels do I have to use the bead lock?

AlleyCat

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#1
On the D6 wheels I have the bead lock. They are too rough on my axles and other parts on the track. Can I just unscrew all the bead locks and have the tires remounted without bead locks. I obviously have had no experience with bead lock wheels except for getting them mounted about two years ago. I am having new axles put on and I do not want to ruin the CVs on them. Bead locks work. But they have no play in them. I would rather slip some.
 


Unholy707

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#2
I don’t understand, you don’t want your tire spinning on the wheel. Beadlock isn’t going to make things harder
 


Unholy707

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#3
No, the ring hold the tire on, you’ll need new wheels
 


OP
AlleyCat

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Thread Starter #4
I don’t understand, you don’t want your tire spinning on the wheel. Beadlock isn’t going to make things harder
If the tires spin a bit, it uses up the energy of the hit. But thanks for letting me know I would need new wheels. I did not think they could be mounted without the ring. Lots of force on that ring as the screws do not go into the tire.
 


Unholy707

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#5
Anytime. yeah, unfortunately you need new ones 😞
 


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AlleyCat

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Thread Starter #6
I did not even realize I was relying totally on pressure from the ring to keep these tires inflated. No wonder why they are not allowed on the street. The theory is, I read, that if two screws in a row become loose or break you could have a major blow out. Not for me.
 


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#7
um no rings holds tire ur still gonna spin bro with all them mods
 


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AlleyCat

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Thread Starter #8
um no ur still gonna spin bro with all them mods
That is amazing that the rings put enough pressure on the tire to keep them inflated and safe. They both were down to zero pressure after a year of non use. I undid the screws on one and of course the tire came off the rim.
 


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#9
I don't run beadlocks not enough power:)
 


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AlleyCat

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Thread Starter #10
I’m just angry at myself that I ran down the track without knowing the technology involved. It must be proven and safe? Well maybe my drag days are behind me. But I will still enjoy the car and make needed repairs and improvements.
 


vortecd

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I’m just angry at myself that I ran down the track without knowing the technology involved. It must be proven and safe? Well maybe my drag days are behind me. But I will still enjoy the car and make needed repairs and improvements.
It's proven and safe. All the fast cars have them
 


OP
AlleyCat

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Thread Starter #12
If anyone lives in the Tucson or even Phoenix area and wants a great deal on front runners and beadlocks they are available! My wife, went wow, you think, going close to 150, is a little risky? Lol. I will live through Marc on here. :)
 


Marc W

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#13
A heavy car with a hard hook will turn the wheel inside the tire. I’ve done it. The idea that a couple inches of wheel slip is a good thing because it is somehow going to reduce the stress on the driveline is a fantasy. A couple passes and you are now so out of balance your steering wheel is shaking at 140 mph. That is hard on the driveline. I have double beadlocks on mine and they don’t loose any air.
 


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AlleyCat

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Thread Starter #14
Makes sense. Mine were down to zero pressure. If you want to play you have to pay. Double beads I am sure were worth the peace of mind you paid for them.
 


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#15
My next move is over to a set of 15" doubles. If for nothing else just so I can do all my tire changes at home.

Any further mods to the powertrain will be big money so its a ways down the road though.
 


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AlleyCat

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Thread Starter #16
I tried to reset the tire inside the wheel myself. That did not go well. Lol. Maybe lots of soap and water and it will work easier.
 


fubar569

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#17
I tried to reset the tire inside the wheel myself. That did not go well. Lol. Maybe lots of soap and water and it will work easier.
I did my singles 95% myself. Had a machine break down the inner bead. That's it.

A light mist of even just water helps to get the new tire over the lip and onto the wheel.

If you have MT ET R's - f&@k the guy that cast that rubber mold for those tires. They're a hair smaller than anyone else around the opening.

What worked for me to seat the tire on the beadlock side was taking some BIG washers and about 5 or 6 ring bolts. Start at 6 o'clock and work around both directions. Get about 5-6" set another washer to hold that part of the bead. Once i got to 3 & 9 I started to have to CAFEFULLY use both elbows, my extra hand and a screwdriver with every last ounce of my sanity to pry/set the tire on the lip. The washers will hold it in place. Once it's set you can remove all washers and check if it's flush. If so...enjoy torqing 24 bolts in 3-4 steps til 12-15 ft/lb.

The inside bead set itself during inflation to 40psi. Let em both set for an hr or so. Check for pressure/leaks (I had none) and deflate to race pressure and send it.
 


Unholy707

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#18
L
I did my singles 95% myself. Had a machine break down the inner bead. That's it.

A light mist of even just water helps to get the new tire over the lip and onto the wheel.

If you have MT ET R's - f&@k the guy that cast that rubber mold for those tires. They're a hair smaller than anyone else around the opening.

What worked for me to seat the tire on the beadlock side was taking some BIG washers and about 5 or 6 ring bolts. Start at 6 o'clock and work around both directions. Get about 5-6" set another washer to hold that part of the bead. Once i got to 3 & 9 I started to have to CAFEFULLY use both elbows, my extra hand and a screwdriver with every last ounce of my sanity to pry/set the tire on the lip. The washers will hold it in place. Once it's set you can remove all washers and check if it's flush. If so...enjoy torqing 24 bolts in 3-4 steps til 12-15 ft/lb.

The inside bead set itself during inflation to 40psi. Let em both set for an hr or so. Check for pressure/leaks (I had none) and deflate to race pressure and send it.
ol they’re literally the worrrrst I made custom aluminum tabs to hold the tire in place as I stretch it around the bead
 


Unholy707

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#19
I went full sit until they popped, lots of soapy water for the inner head to set itself
 


RGPIII

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#20
On the D6 wheels I have the bead lock. They are too rough on my axles and other parts on the track. Can I just unscrew all the bead locks and have the tires remounted without bead locks. I obviously have had no experience with bead lock wheels except for getting them mounted about two years ago. I am having new axles put on and I do not want to ruin the CVs on them. Bead locks work. But they have no play in them. I would rather slip some.

With the power you make I say keep the bead locks, have your tuner take some power off the launch to be safe and enjoy your car. if you're that worried about traction down low put an extra pound of air in the tire so it spins a little for you. The wheels are not causing anymore axle breakage than the power or the tire. I snapped my first axle on a non beadlock wheel.

proper torque on the lock ring and you will never have an issue with losing air. I run the D5's on my car and torque them to 12 ftlbs. I've never had one issue.
 




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