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Aftermarket parts - what works and what is a waste of cash?

Decay

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#21
I for one am very interested in Mr. Gatzby's track results and I am SURE He will keep us posted!
 


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#22
...

I'd say that the biggest issue facing these cars is the fact that they place the endlink balljoint in a cantilevered position at the point of highest load (the end of the bar). Consequently they tend to try to pull themselves apart. Moving the lower end of the link, at the bar, over the bar into double sheer and compression would potentially alleviate the failure point and better transfer the energy into the chassis/bar. Basically by building a clevis. I'd have to look at the upper mount to see if there was a way to improve that too.

...
Have you done this?
 


sad

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#23
Best mod ever bar none? The driver mod. Get seat time. Learn. Practice. Lather rinse repeat.
 


Decay

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#24
Best mod ever bar none? The driver mod. Get seat time. Learn. Practice. Lather rinse repeat.
Just like the instructions on the bottle!!
 


Decay

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#25
Continuing the discussion. Yesterday I changed the camber on all four corners with the AAD hardware. The front worked smooth and easy, the Allen Head tops are two metric sizes, as are the underside nuts. For the camber I used the next tab for more negative. All six arms; four in the back and the two in the front actually all contain the same tab for their street setting, which is very convenient. The fronts use the tabs going one direction and the rears the other direction. Again convenient, since I have a collection of about all their sizes.

The rear was a bit more messy to screw with. First I am glad I did not wait until Saturday morning. I had a damn flashback of working on custom bikes!

1. A regular key/wrench has a problem both itself or if a guy has a longer reach variety of some sort. The shock is in the way, of any straight shot.

View attachment 16878

Little work with a saw, and now I have another custom tool in my collection..

View attachment 16879
See the other little problem with mixing aftermarket parts??

Solid sway bar links that bring the sway bar so low it contacts the arms. That pisses me off because it will be smashed worse after Saturday. Now is that inhibiting some movement of one arm and causing a misalignment at full compression?? Probably!!

View attachment 16880

The rears are more difficult to move. A spacer between the arms plus I added a couple of nuts to the rotors and yanked on them a bit to seat the new tabs in the right spot. Not going to screw with these until I restore it to street. Much mire PIA than the fronts.
Could you turn those bolts around?
Or use all thread with nylocks on both sides?
Or, is the housing threaded?
 


OP
DGatzby

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Thread Starter #26
Could you turn those bolts around?
Or use all thread with nylocks on both sides?
Or, is the housing threaded?
It is a bolt/nut. I am going to watch them today. No lock-tight so I did not add that, they seemed light a light nylock type. The fronts are a good nylock type. Today, I'll take some more peeks at them because one in the rear was loose after just a little street driving. Same arm as the arm getting smashed by the sway bar. I am not far from adding some blue lock tight.
 


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#27
Continuing the discussion. Yesterday I changed the camber on all four corners with the AAD hardware. The front worked smooth and easy, the Allen Head tops are two metric sizes, as are the underside nuts. For the camber I used the next tab for more negative. All six arms; four in the back and the two in the front actually all contain the same tab for their street setting, which is very convenient. The fronts use the tabs going one direction and the rears the other direction. Again convenient, since I have a collection of about all their sizes.

The rear was a bit more messy to screw with. First I am glad I did not wait until Saturday morning. I had a damn flashback of working on custom bikes!

1. A regular key/wrench has a problem both itself or if a guy has a longer reach variety of some sort. The shock is in the way, of any straight shot.

View attachment 16878

Little work with a saw, and now I have another custom tool in my collection..

View attachment 16879
See the other little problem with mixing aftermarket parts??

Solid sway bar links that bring the sway bar so low it contacts the arms. That pisses me off because it will be smashed worse after Saturday. Now is that inhibiting some movement of one arm and causing a misalignment at full compression?? Probably!!

View attachment 16880

The rears are more difficult to move. A spacer between the arms plus I added a couple of nuts to the rotors and yanked on them a bit to seat the new tabs in the right spot. Not going to screw with these until I restore it to street. Much mire PIA than the fronts.
Would a low collar nylock help you with this since they aren't as tall? You could also then trim the bolt if necessary.

low collar.jpg
 


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DGatzby

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Thread Starter #28
Would a low collar nylock help you with this since they aren't as tall? You could also then trim the bolt if necessary.

View attachment 16907
I’ll need to look at what they have.

Check out my next post, the aftermarket parts kicked butt!
 


OP
DGatzby

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Thread Starter #29
Okay you supercharger spinning nuts tell me about this piece of shit. Is this the first time someone took it out a Demon/Redeye brand for 15-20 minutes instead for 15 seconds, and ran a lot of 4-6k work on it? After a good session, we were inspecting and found the grease that sprayed around. That pissed me off because I keep it clean. After that - no supercharger. The scream is gone. Oh, did I say I was pissed at my flipping Mopar tonight?

62A8B8C3-5EFA-4FEA-8C42-2481CEF5D69F.jpeg
 


Decay

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#30
Okay you supercharger spinning nuts tell me about this piece of shit. Is this the first time someone took it out a Demon/Redeye brand for 15-20 minutes instead for 15 seconds, and ran a lot of 4-6k work on it? After a good session, we were inspecting and found the grease that sprayed around. That pissed me off because I keep it clean. After that - no supercharger. The scream is gone. Oh, did I say I was pissed at my flipping Mopar tonight?

View attachment 16943
Are you saying SC Failure??
I have ran the dog shit out of mine on back road runs(in Mexico) at the 4-6.5 K range and no issues.
Sometimes 20 minute runs.
I did have a weird oil/grease spray like that when I picked up my car "new".
But the suspension mods were fine and worked as they should?
 


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DGatzby

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Thread Starter #31
Are you saying SC Failure??
I have ran the dog shit out of mine on back road runs(in Mexico) at the 4-6.5 K range and no issues.
Sometimes 20 minute runs.
I did have a weird oil/grease spray like that when I picked up my car "new".
Difference it it won’t spin. What’s fun is we have video, and tons of data if they want to compare my notes. Seems the bearing went to shit and won’t spin it now. SOB went out I glory. I noticed it did not spin for a half mile or two before coming back to life for about 15-20 minutes. Then after some rest, no SC spin.
 


Decay

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#32
Sorry about this .Worst part is dealing with FCA!!

But, It's just a temporary setback.

I know that is no consolation however.
 


Decay

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#33
Did you trailer to the track?
 


OP
DGatzby

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Thread Starter #34
Did you trailer to the track?
Trailer technically. But don’t ask me about my damn Grand Cherokee that had its air bag on one side of the rear suspension go in Joplin, MO!
 


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DGatzby

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Thread Starter #35
It runs fine down the road if we need to limp it to Joplin. I may be picking up a truck here in Tulsa Monday Morning. Dam thing does not even give up an idiot light. Dam sure can’t hear, feel or see it in the engine read outs. Maybe that one don’t need the idiot light.
 


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#36
Damn that sucks! Sorry to hear. Naturally it couldn’t have happened at the end if the season rather than the beginning.
 


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DGatzby

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Thread Starter #37
Right. The only saving deal is my buddy here with my old Hellcat. I am giving some lessons tomorrow. Hope I don’t break another one.
 


sad

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#38
It runs fine down the road if we need to limp it to Joplin. I may be picking up a truck here in Tulsa Monday Morning. Dam thing does not even give up an idiot light. Dam sure can’t hear, feel or see it in the engine read outs. Maybe that one don’t need the idiot light.
well maybe we have alternate plans for tomorrow??

i was incorrect about the status of my track brake pads for the vette. Rear, brand new, still in wrapper.... front..... uh.... I didnt order them when I ordered the rear.

i was just planning on coming down running a few laps on street pads... but if your car is down, we can certainly get you to Joplin. Or whatever you like. I’m free. So is my trailer and my truck’s driver.
 


sad

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#39
BTW... that’s nuts. The way that failed. Never seen one like it. Not sure what to think.
 


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#40
Break that one, then I wood advance to 22 Hell Mary's,, 22 prostitutes, and 22 gulps of shine. You are defiantly on the hell list. Now see there is an act of kindness from,, up younder. Thins are better. FCA ain't yo friend.
 




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