Challenger Hellcat A/C help

[Hickster]

Yea, ifster both fans were runen. Dat is why da utter man, and woemon, facturer are adding moe HX 2 diespurce da heat. Sum up 2 6 of em. Sum have up grated dare raditiader. Woodn't dat be a thought. Go 2 alimun and bigga wit 4 HX's. Moe heat dispercment = moe HP, yaa whoo. Luuks like our man of da hour will have himshelf a new and well deserved culen system. Pressure ought 2 bee higher at da beer frig.

 

[Demid22]

Any difference in pressures with drag valve on and only chiller in the circuit?

Not really. Maybe a few lbs

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Not really. Maybe a few lbs

What for compressor you use? OEM Mopar or aftermarket? I’ve heard of success with both, and headaches with both. Are you sure gauge ports are 100% open and have good connection? I’ve seen the high pressure side once pressurized close off, pushes the the connection up and the schrader valve reseats itself.

 

[hellno]

Yea. I changed out the compressor, drier, and expansion valve. Charged it with 1200g. It worked about half way if that makes sense. Certainly cooling but not like it was. Pressures were 80 low side. 150 high side. I might go ahead and buy a pressure switch as well. Im unsure whether itd work "half way" if it was bad but at this point im lost.

I know it was working before and the only thing in the area i was working is the pressure switch and where i extendes it for the chiller. Ive looked these areas over extensively and checked what HP tuners sees. See above pics. Got a guy looking it over as well. Will post back when i find something. Once i get it up and running ill update my build thread with the whipple and new tank and cwa. Its a sweet setup.

1200grams is way too much (42ounces) i agree with @16GoManGoHC2 slowly bleed the system and see if the low side drops ,,i personally start with 24 onces on mine then i bleed it to where its reading 35 on the low side ,i also have a big fan blowing at the front of my car ...i have a chiller as well no way they hold 42 onces ,,stop throwing parts and money at it ,,go back to the basics

 

[Demid22]

1200grams is way too much (42ounces) i agree with @16GoManGoHC2 slowly bleed the system and see if the low side drops ,,i personally start with 24 onces on mine then i bleed it to where its reading 35 on the low side ,i also have a big fan blowing at the front of my car ...i have a chiller as well no way they hold 42 onces ,,stop throwing parts and money at it ,,go back to the basics

Was just following what Kirk from FI saod

 

[Demid22]

What for compressor you use? OEM Mopar or aftermarket? I’ve heard of success with both, and headaches with both. Are you sure gauge ports are 100% open and have good connection? I’ve seen the high pressure side once pressurized close off, pushes the the connection up and the schrader valve reseats itself.

Aftermarket.
Im fairly certain my connections are good

 

[Demid22]

Well i found the culprit. Sensor on back side of ac compressor. Mustve been internally broken. When i was messing around double checking all my lines it just fell out.

 

[DodgeCares]

2017 Challenger Hellcat. Has the FI interchiller stage 2 installed. Was working beautifully. No issues at all. I left for work for about 4 weeks and the car got some work done. Now. Shes back together but A/C doesnt work at all. Put a set of Gauges on it and the low pressure side is high(90-110) and high pressure side is low-normal(100-150). AC compressor clutch engages and spins with the compressor. I drained the system. Pulled a vaccumm. Held it for 45mins. Held fine. Went to recharge the system and within 1 can of refrigerant low pressure side is high again. Any thoughts at all?

Hello Demid22,,

Thank you for reaching out, our team is here to assist. We see you have been to the dealer about another concern, but have you spoken with the dealer recently about regarding your new concern? Private message us if you need assistance with contacting another dealer.

Naudia
Dodge Cares

 

[Unholy707]

Well i found the culprit. Sensor on back side of ac compressor. Mustve been internally broken. When i was messing around double checking all my lines it just fell out.

You did it, or did the shop that was installing the other stuff do it?

 

[Demid22]

You did it, or did the shop that was installing the other stuff do it?

I did it. Im not sure what that person is talking about.

All is well. Will update my build thread soon.

 

[Demid22]

Im awaiting confirmation and guidance from Kirk at FI.

The complete AC system (minus chiller) has been reversed flushed. A brand new factory drier and chiller drier, factory Tx valve and chiller Tx valve and compressor have been purchased and installed. Correct amount of PAG oil and R134a have been charged to the system. At idle im getting vent temps between 35-45 degrees.

So its safe to say AC is up and working.

In 85 degree weather, cab/chiller mode, IC gets down to 60 degrees roughly. When flipped to chiller only it only drops to 55. I was getting 30s previously in same heat. At this point Gleen with RPM and I are banging our heads on why its not cooling. Inter chiller is working just not like it was.
Ive changed out temp sensors on the whipple, no change.
With the whipple and extending the temp sensor to reach its new location I wonder if the extra wire is adding resistance and throwing off the reading? Ive bled and burped the coolant lines so I don't suspect an air pocket at this point.

I didnt flush the chiller because kirk never told me to and i didnt want to damage it.

Any help appreciated

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

The extra wire extension for the temperature sensor only adds a fraction of a ohm or so and the sensor is reading about1.5 k ohm if I remember correctly so even 3-4 ohms is not going to change its reading much. The temps you list is about what I get from my Kincaid drag size KC at 24 psi of boost with my 3.0 Whipple.
What is your high and low pressures now? You have stage 2 with the auxiliary condenser and fan right? List Pressures with fan on and off if yes.

 

[Demid22]

The extra wire extension for the temperature sensor only adds a fraction of a ohm or so and the sensor is reading about1.5 k ohm if I remember correctly so even 3-4 ohms is not going to change its reading much. The temps you list is about what I get from my Kincaid drag size KC at 24 psi of boost with my 3.0 Whipple.
What is your high and low pressures now? You have stage 2 with the auxiliary condenser and fan right? List Pressures with fan on and off if yes.

Yes stage 2 with 2nd condenser and fan. Glenn from RPM. has my exact setup and seeing 30 degree temps.

Ill check high and lows with drag valve on and off when i get home in a few

 

[Demid22]

The extra wire extension for the temperature sensor only adds a fraction of a ohm or so and the sensor is reading about1.5 k ohm if I remember correctly so even 3-4 ohms is not going to change its reading much. The temps you list is about what I get from my Kincaid drag size KC at 24 psi of boost with my 3.0 Whipple.
What is your high and low pressures now? You have stage 2 with the auxiliary condenser and fan right? List Pressures with fan on and off if yes.

Bare in mind these temps listed are at idle as well now during a pull

 

[zhc]

Yes stage 2 with 2nd condenser and fan. Glenn from RPM. has my exact setup and seeing 30 degree temps.

Ill check high and lows with drag valve on and off when i get home in a few

Does he have a 3.0L Whipple too?

 

[Demid22]

The extra wire extension for the temperature sensor only adds a fraction of a ohm or so and the sensor is reading about1.5 k ohm if I remember correctly so even 3-4 ohms is not going to change its reading much. The temps you list is about what I get from my Kincaid drag size KC at 24 psi of boost with my 3.0 Whipple.
What is your high and low pressures now? You have stage 2 with the auxiliary condenser and fan right? List Pressures with fan on and off if yes.

Chiller and cab:
Low side:45
High side :95

Chiller only:
Low side: 40
High side:40

 

[Demid22]

Does he have a 3.0L Whipple too?

Yes

 

[zhc]

Yes

30 degree temps is crazy good for a 3.0L Whipple. Their double pass through intercooler extracts a lot of heat from the air which the chiller has to transfer out and normally temps are higher because it’s a lot of energy to move out.

Make sure the intercooler lines going into the blower didn’t get swapped around from the back or front. The sensor will read a lot higher temp when it’s reading post intercooler temps vs pre.

Small chance that’s it but probably not.

 

[Demid22]

30 degree temps is crazy good for a 3.0L Whipple. Their double pass through intercooler extracts a lot of heat from the air which the chiller has to transfer out and normally temps are higher because it’s a lot of energy to move out.

Make sure the intercooler lines going into the blower didn’t get swapped around from the back or front. The sensor will read a lot higher temp when it’s reading post intercooler temps vs pre.

Small chance that’s it but probably not.

Ill verify but i agree its unlikely.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I’d charge low side to 50, 55 tops in hot weather hot coolant on the suction side with chiller and cabin going.
Do you have a sight glass to check for bubbling? You should see solid liquid.