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IC Chiller install & review

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Unholy707

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Thread Starter #201
I have read all the post and I plan on installing the IC chiller also with the aux. tank but it seems like most the problem's I see is with the 3 way valve? if you by pass the 3 way valve. That tells me I really don't have to have it? I don't have to run any wires in my car anyway for any kind of switch if I don't have to.And I'm sure that IC chiller will come with good instruction's? Just assuming that and you know what they say about assuming!! Is there anything you guys can think of I should pay attention to? Thanks, Robert
Most issues you’ll have is the plumbing for coolant lines if you use the 3 way valve, but I can help you with that. You’ll still need a switch for the drag valve for the AC, they provide that. They provide metal fittings now for the 3 way coolant valve for the bypass, you should be fine
 


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So don't have to use the three way valve? Seems like that valve is more trouble than it's worth. Or am I wrong. lord know I'm wrong quite a bit...lol I saved your pic. of bypassing it if need be.
 


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So don't have to use the three way valve? Seems like that valve is more trouble than it's worth. Or am I wrong. lord know I'm wrong quite a bit...lol I saved your pic. of bypassing it if need be.
If you bypass the HE. Your coolant plumbing becomes much easier
 


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If you bypass the HE. Your coolant plumbing becomes much easier
when you say bypass the HE? I'm not good on abbreviation. I want to install the IC chiller and now I think you can buy the crask bar with the aux.tank which that's what I'm going to do for a little xtra coolant
 


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My 3 way valve is still leaking at the fittings...it's 100% better than last year but still dropped coolant over the winter. You say there's metal fittings included with the kits now? What size and style would they be if I tried to source locally?

Also. Earlier I mentioned the low side suction into the compressor was essentially tight to/rubbing on the cylinder head/valve cover mating surface. Pictures. Finally. Of what I'm talking about. You'll see the piece of hose I was barely able to wedge in there for now.

You also mentioned an updated or longer line for this purpose...how big of a PITA is it gonna be to retrofit mine so it doesn't make contact anymore?

Otherwise it appears the system held charge over winter. Preliminary test at 52* ambient still got things below 40* coolant temp without much fuss. I expect it to do better once fully evacuated and properly charged to the recommended 28oz since I literally have no idea how much of the 7 containers of 134a made it into the car or the atmosphere. I tried twice to charge by pressure instead of weight and failed miserably after that low side fitting came loose at the track last year. Lol
 


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20240305_181506.jpg 20240305_181450.jpg
 


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Thread Starter #207
They’re 3/4” npt. I’ve had mine apart a few times now, think it’s finally done dripping after a fittings, pipe paste, and tightening the crap out of them. You need to unscrew the hardline from the fitting that goes to the compressor, index it differently, tighten, then reinstall. Hose is just hose, just get a piece of the same kind and make it as long/short as you need for the suction line
My 3 way valve is still leaking at the fittings...it's 100% better than last year but still dropped coolant over the winter. You say there's metal fittings included with the kits now? What size and style would they be if I tried to source locally?

Also. Earlier I mentioned the low side suction into the compressor was essentially tight to/rubbing on the cylinder head/valve cover mating surface. Pictures. Finally. Of what I'm talking about. You'll see the piece of hose I was barely able to wedge in there for now.

You also mentioned an updated or longer line for this purpose...how big of a PITA is it gonna be to retrofit mine so it doesn't make contact anymore?

Otherwise it appears the system held charge over winter. Preliminary test at 52* ambient still got things below 40* coolant temp without much fuss. I expect it to do better once fully evacuated and properly charged to the recommended 28oz since I literally have no idea how much of the 7 containers of 134a made it into the car or the atmosphere. I tried twice to charge by pressure instead of weight and failed miserably after that low side fitting came loose at the track last year. Lol
 


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Thread Starter #208
So you loosen the fitting from the hard line on the compressor, swing the hard line towards the bumper away from the cylinder wall, mark with a marker, take off car, tighten and line up marks, reinstall. The hard line and the fitting that connects to the compressor isn’t 1 piece - they come apart
 


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Thread Starter #209
IMG_1767.jpeg IMG_1769.jpeg IMG_1764.jpeg IMG_1763.jpeg IMG_1761.jpeg IMG_1758.jpeg
 


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Thread Starter #210
Hope that helps @fubar569
 


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Thread Starter #211
My AN fittings that I switched to were leaking until I got a BMFW to tighten them, all good now. Go with 3/4 npt to 3/4” barb - I would not use AN fittings for the valve.
 


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The pictures most certainly help but I'm not sure that the lower piece of Hardline for that connection to the compressor even looks like that. It's as if mine is shorter and without the extra Bend because if we were to swing yours to the orientation that mine is it would be pointing in a completely different direction than mine currently does. Also I doubt that Allpar left me enough slack to move that block that far IF we were able to rotate the line. I would probably need another section of line to cut and recrimp for the section that runs from that block back to the low side port.
 


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Thread Starter #213
Tis why no one works on my car but me. Everything is exactly how I want it, either great, or good enough lmfao
 


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Thread Starter #214
I bet you can get down in there and get pics to see if it’s the same, just take your intake off
 


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Thread Starter #215
Mine was like this before I reclocked it. Looks just like how yours is now. You just need to do what I suggested.

IMG_1755.jpeg
 


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Thread Starter #216
You need to undo it and reclock it @fubar569. That hard line is on the compressor fitting tight. They installed it just how it was in the box - I took everything apart and mocked it up first
 


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Thread Starter #217
Yeah, but it’s just good year AC line, part number is right in the hose and 2 crimp fittings. I would redo it if it were my car, have already redone my coolant side and the fittings twice
 


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Thread Starter #218
I also put some vibrant extreme wrap on my suction line before the block, pipe insulation after the block. Notched out my JLT air box to use it again
IMG_3330.jpeg IMG_3328.jpeg IMG_3325.jpeg IMG_3315.jpeg
 


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Thread Starter #219
IMG_3859.jpeg
 


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I will double check but I am like 99% sure your small piece of hard line is radically different than mine is. Yours has 2 bends in it and appears to be much longer. Mine almost comes literally straight off the AC compressor with a single bend and right up into the clamp. You can almost see it in my picture but it's difficult. There is no double bend like yours and I'm well inside that valve cover bolt.

Is yours a redeye by chance?
 




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