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DRAGRCR RED EYES

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Boris

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#41
Checking in.
 


TNREDEYE

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#42
Thx for the info so far Ron. It'll be fun having someone else on here racing a RE. The wheel/tire info is particularly useful for me. It appears that the BS/Hoosier setup is right at 30 lb lighte overall than my current setup. 30 lbs of rotating weight will show up nicely on a time slip.

Btw, have you weighed your seat? I'm considering replacing my stock seats w something lighter and I don't have really any idea how much lighter a nice replacement seat is.

Thx,
Bo
 


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DRAGRCR

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Lord Hellcat

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#44
Very much looking forward to how you get on.
 


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I have had a frostbite RedEye on order for a few weeks now and its scheduled delivery window is now April 10 - 24. Probably won't be the 10th because as of yesterday it was in Wyoming on a Rail Car heading to California.

I sold my Demon because I was disgusted and fed up with the Stock Demon group. So I needed to divorce myself from that whole deal. Make a big change and never look back. I was seriously considering buying a 2020 ONE SEAT Scat Pack 1320. It just so happened on the day I went to order there was a glitch in the system so I ordered a RedEye instead. Good thing too, because the RedEye was built and shipped and I am pretty sure no 1320s were scheduled to be built yet. So I would have been waiting MONTHS due to Coronavirus.

My plan for this car is to go as fast as I can with reasonable and tactful weight reduction. Also weight reduction that is affordable. So that will leave out things like lightweight brake rotors (unless I get a sponsor). I want them real bad but the reduction to cost ratio is not that good. I am hoping for high 9's in substantially negative DA. I honestly do not think this car will be as light as my Demon was but many of the RedEyes have put up very good times for what they were at the time. So we will see if my car can further that trend.

I ordered a Base RedEye.
Frostbite.
3.09 gears.
SRT Performance Spoiler.
Rear Seat Delete Group.

Mods planned:

Street Wheels/Tires : Forgestar F14 Drag Pack Gunmetal18X5 and 17X10 with MT Sportsman SR 28X6.00R18LT and MT ET STREET R 315/50R17

Race Wheels/Tires : BS Win Lite Drag Pack 18X5 and 17X10 with Hoosier Drag Front 28X4.5-18 and Hoosier Drag Bracket Radial 28/10.5R17

Remove Pass seat & Drivers seat and replace Driver with Corbeau FX1 Pro seat and install Air Bag warnig Light Bypass Harnesses both sides.

Drain Windshield Washer Reservoir and install low level warning light bypass plug.

Install Demon Race/Crate Air filter (I know someone that can get these restricted parts LOL).

SW Mid Pipes.

Remove Sway Bar.

Light Weight Braille Battery i49CE ( I already had this from the Demon).

Pass Mirror Delete.


. View attachment 15654
Good to see you went with the NB just like me so I know what path to take:)
 


DGatzby

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#46
Ron, exciting times for you. It is a great read and glad to be following.

Thanks again for being the first to explain the damn strange knocking sound at idle. While I had it up doing the oil change yesterday, after checking the rear suspension and checking my differential brace, I remember looking at that area again from below and saying to myself, I have never went so long and not been able to identify a noise in my car. Thank you Sir! I added the trophy at your #1 post!
 


coolblue

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#47
Ron, exciting times for you. It is a great read and glad to be following.

Thanks again for being the first to explain the damn strange knocking sound at idle. While I had it up doing the oil change yesterday, after checking the rear suspension and checking my differential brace, I remember looking at that area again from below and saying to myself, I have never went so long and not been able to identify a noise in my car. Thank you Sir! I added the trophy at your #1 post!
Umm...I missed that post. What was the reason or source of that noise? My RE has it and it seams to be more noticeable at startup when cold.
 


HRJ

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#48
Umm...I missed that post. What was the reason or source of that noise? My RE has it and it seams to be more noticeable at startup when cold.
Same here. Imma need a link please
 


Marc W

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#49
Hey Ron... I have the Braum race seats now and I locked them in place. Nobody but me drives the car so one position is ok. They are more difficult to get in and out of because of the high sides but that’s just the nature of a deep bucket race seat like this. I do not trust those light weight sliders to securely lock that seat down in the event of a violent crash, so I went with the fixed side mounts. The seat without mounting brackets is 22 lbs. I weighed them to confirm and they aren’t lying. I went with the heavier Planted steel side brackets but there are some real light (real pricey) aluminum versions out there. The brackets were 4 lbs if I remember right. So 26 lbs total. Thing is..... you have to place something under those brackets to reach the mounting points in our cars. I couldn’t find anything other than those heavy Challenger specific Planted bases that are a direct bolt in. So there was a extra 3 lbs to reach the attachment points and also raise the seat up to where I could see out 😂. So... end result was 29/30 lbs. 6FA2C0F2-ECC9-479D-A0F1-4766A7B4737B.jpeg 5411B26D-BE58-4360-9844-1DCEE33C8356.jpeg 2A8C70E6-9855-43DB-A69B-8856025C9AEF.jpeg 5AECE682-33B0-4165-99EE-055E5E8F0336.jpeg
 


CDT Rotors

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#50
...So that will leave out things like lightweight brake rotors (unless I get a sponsor). I want them real bad but the reduction to cost ratio is not that good...

A couple of things...

We already know that the challenge of making people understand the significance of rotor weight reduction is going to be our biggest obstacle to overcome. For some reason not everyone gets that reducing rotor mass is a significant area to pull mass out of, to say nothing of the fact that rotors are obviously rotating mass which comes with a multiplier. (We think you get it...)

Most of this is that historically, you only had a few of choices. You could buy CF rotors for $12-15K. You could stay with your O.E. rotor size, but buy a "light weigh" version of them, saving 3-4lbs (~10%?). You also could retrofit your brakes with a smaller rotor and/or caliper.

Our goal is to add a significantly different option to the mix.

An option that is better than CF in just about every way... Lighter or equal weight than CF, better durability and longevity than CF and notably less expensive than CF, and with an increase in total braking performance.


As for your other comment...

Hmmmmm.....
 


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DRAGRCR

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Demon1

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#52
A couple of things...

We already know that the challenge of making people understand the significance of rotor weight reduction is going to be our biggest obstacle to overcome. For some reason not everyone gets that reducing rotor mass is a significant area to pull mass out of, to say nothing of the fact that rotors are obviously rotating mass which comes with a multiplier. (We think you get it...)

Most of this is that historically, you only had a few of choices. You could buy CF rotors for $12-15K. You could stay with your O.E. rotor size, but buy a "light weigh" version of them, saving 3-4lbs (~10%?). You also could retrofit your brakes with a smaller rotor and/or caliper.

Our goal is to add a significantly different option to the mix.

An option that is better than CF in just about every way... Lighter or equal weight than CF, better durability and longevity than CF and notably less expensive than CF, and with an increase in total braking performance.


As for your other comment...

Hmmmmm.....
I googled your company and didn't find anything. Website?
 


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DRAGRCR

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DRAGRCR

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Mean Cat

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#55
Congrats Ron , can't wait to see what the RE will do !
 


CDT Rotors

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I googled your company and didn't find anything. Website?

We have a site in development, for now, we have an exclusive agreement to promote, and in the future, distribute from hellcatforum.org
 


HRJ

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OK, let's get this show on the road. Where's the car today?














:)
 


jgilj

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We have a site in development, for now, we have an exclusive agreement to promote, and in the future, distribute from hellcatforum.org
CDT Rotors I’ll bet you could get @Dragrar to be your test vehicle! 👍👍
 


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DRAGRCR

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Mean Cat

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CDT Rotors I’ll bet you could get @Dragrar to be your test vehicle! 👍👍
Or I will ! (y)
 


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