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Ceramic coating

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jonx96

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Thread Starter #61
Gtechniq Pro. Same brand as the DIY stuff I used but DIY is "Lite" not "Pro". Supposedly Lite has less ceramic in it so less chance of a DIY messing it up. If it gets wet it flash hardens and you have to buff it off with a lot of effort (machine polisher). I had no issues what so ever doing two cars myself though and I'd for sure do the DIY before I hired someone. The main thing the pros do is the paint correction before applying the ceramic. The paint on my cars was perfect before hand so wasn't a variable for me. If you have scratches/swirls you'll want those polished out first else the ceramic seals them in.
Sounds good. I did look up what you used and looks like it is recommended by many. I’m pretty good with a machine polisher. I drove my truck through some pretty heavy brush years ago. I took it as a learning experience. Took the day off work and 12 hrs later it looked brand new. I was very nervous.
Look into a dual action polisher makes it a lot harder to mess up compared to a rotary. Like 60 bucks at harbor freight. Well it used to be 5 years ago.
 


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Thread Starter #62
So just asked the dealer to see what the brand they use he told me they use a special formula only they have.
I have heard of people making their own formulas. Like a lot of things parts are only made by so many companies and they just formulate it themselves. Prolly cheaper with how many they do. Not saying it is a bad thing. But wasnt the brand I thought it was.
 


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#63
Yep I was big in to detailing years ago and had a Porter Cable DA I used with Griot's polishing compounds and paint sealers. Like you said LOTS of labor hours spent and not something I'm willing to do now. I'll pay the guy for paint correction if needed and do the ceramic myself unless it's real cost effective to include it.
 


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Thread Starter #64
Yep I was big in to detailing years ago and had a Porter Cable DA I used with Griot's polishing compounds and paint sealers. Like you said LOTS of labor hours spent and not something I'm willing to do now. I'll pay the guy for paint correction if needed and do the ceramic myself unless it's real cost effective to include it.
Well if you bought a water softener you might have time again :ROFLMAO:
 


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#65
My city water is some of the best in PA if not the eastern US and it still leaves spots on black. It actually has Minimal amounts of anything trace & very little TDS. Still use a big blue 4x20 filled with resin for deionized water. Still a PITA.

The drying technique is super important.

I'll be converting to a battery blower this year. Thinking Milwaukee because I have M18 stuff already and they have 3D printed stubby nozzles just for this purpose.
 


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#66
I use a battery powered Dewalt blower to dry and that method works really well. I just touch up jambs, trunk, and underhood with a micro fiber drying towel.
 


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