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Blower speed chart

vortecd

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#1
Is there a chart/calculator where you change blower pulley size and crank pulley size for blower rpm? Vortech had one and you could see by going to a bigger lower and bigger upper you could run the same blower speed then just using a smaller upper

As an example, if you ran just a 2.5 upper compared to a larger lower with a 2.7 upper may be turning the blower the same speed at 6,000 rpm but you would have a bigger upper so less chance of slippage.
 


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#2
Something like this perhaps:
E0B99AF4-C52C-4776-B5B4-0D416B872B85.png
 


OP
vortecd

vortecd

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Thread Starter #3
Yep, and I found another


chart.png
 


BULL

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#4
Oops


ATI diameter seems to be disputed?
 


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#5
FYI: I got this straight off of the ATI website:

1591752075802.png

  • #8: Adds 3 PSI. Requires 59.4" belt: Gates K100594HD. A/C bracket may need grinding for clearance.
 


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vortecd

vortecd

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Thread Starter #6
Interesting since the ATI is suppose to be 10% which would be 8.80
 


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#7
So for all the stock boost arguments.
Spinning the motor to 6500 has similar increase as the 8.75 lower on a stock shift point car.🤔🤫
 


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#8
So for all the stock boost arguments.
Spinning the motor to 6500 has similar increase as the 8.75 lower on a stock shift point car.🤔🤫
Stock boost is achieved to 6100 rpms( stock hellcat shift with factory sized pulleys) but once you spin past 6100 rpms you then start making more boost then stock. So as long as you don`t spin past the factory set shift point then it is stock boost.. If you change a pulley you spin the supercharger faster at every rpm not just past the factory shift point..
 


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#9
RE spins to 6300ish stock.
 


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#10
RE spins to 6300ish stock.
Correct . Stock shift points are set at 6300 the same as the demon .

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk
 


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vortecd

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Thread Starter #11
1659999192589.png
 


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vortecd

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1659999225690.png
 


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#13
@BULL wiki section for this ?
 


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#14

WIKI POST

Submissions and Feedback @ "Wiki & FAQ"
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#15
@BULL wiki section for this ?


Did someone say Wiki??? :oops:

Man, nobody has said Wiki in a long time... :confused:

I was feeling very alone and sad in my Wiki corner...

Dark and bleak it was...

1660006969000.png
 


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#16
Thoughts are this is why it isn't worth buying a max effort package unless you are looking for every 10th possible. Seems more and more people are destroying their supercharger lately. Also is why if you buy a package and they don't tell you pulley size or injector size to make your own educated choice on what's best.
I don't go for the whole just trust me thing.
As you know I encourage you to ask me questions along the way and I do my best to answer them.
 


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My unsolicited .02 cents is you have to make a decision for what you wanna do with the car. "Max Effort" accept the inherent risks and have a backup plan and funding accordingly. Or "Max Performance with Endurance". The latter is my methodology but I won't be setting records and am fine with that. I think a lot have gotten spoiled by how easy it is to have a 9 second car on this platform. Just a few years ago that required a pretty serious setup.

We're also seeing a tipping point on this platform. From what I've noticed the past several years 10.00 at 140 is pretty much a solid reliable setup. 9.50 at 145mph is reliable but you have to take some precautions with some extra bracing, run the right fuel, etc. Below 9.50 better get the wallet out for spare parts.
 


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#18
My unsolicited .02 cents is you have to make a decision for what you wanna do with the car. "Max Effort" accept the inherent risks and have a backup plan and funding accordingly. Or "Max Performance with Endurance". The latter is my methodology but I won't be setting records and am fine with that. I think a lot have gotten spoiled by how easy it is to have a 9 second car on this platform. Just a few years ago that required a pretty serious setup.

We're also seeing a tipping point on this platform. From what I've noticed the past several years 10.00 at 140 is pretty much a solid reliable setup. 9.50 at 145mph is reliable but you have to take some precautions with some extra bracing, run the right fuel, etc. Below 9.50 better get the wallet out for spare parts.

Agreed I was pushing not necessarily for "max effort" but "good effort" maybe. Now as I haven't driven my car since TX2K22 and pistons just recently arrived, I'm leaning more towards a fun 900whp+ daily driver that will still run solid 9 second passes and be reliable. I don't need to be the fastest. I surely can't hang with this generations grudge racers in my family car. I'm just going to enjoy it. "max performance with endurance"
 


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#19
I'm playing the game of I need 8s once and hope it lives and then turn it down a bit :ROFLMAO: I may swap to a 3.10 pulley for 90 percent of the time. Put the 2.85 on if I feel crazy. This is with the lower. I think a 2.85 is a good spot with the redeye blower by its self.
Anyway I don't know my plans. At this point it is to optimize where I'm at and not add power. Sadly I decided on an ice box over nitrous. Probably smart. Hopefully the weight doesn't slow me down.
 


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vortecd

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Thread Starter #20
I'm playing the game of I need 8s once and hope it lives and then turn it down a bit :ROFLMAO: I may swap to a 3.10 pulley for 90 percent of the time. Put the 2.85 on if I feel crazy. This is with the lower. I think a 2.85 is a good spot with the redeye blower by its self.
Anyway I don't know my plans. At this point it is to optimize where I'm at and not add power. Sadly I decided on an ice box over nitrous. Probably smart. Hopefully the weight doesn't slow me down.
Ice is cheaper then nitrous:geek:
 




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